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Bond Style – Bolivian Desert Combat in Quantum of Solace

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Daniel Craig as a dirty James Bond in Quantum of Solace.

Daniel Craig as a dirty James Bond in Quantum of Solace.

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, rogue British secret agent

Bolivia, Summer 2008

Film: Quantum of Solace
Release Date: October 31, 2008
Director: Marc Forster
Costume Designer: Louise Frogley

Background

Recently, I covered Butch Cassidy’s attire while in Bolivia. Exactly 100 years later, James Bond was wreaking havoc on the country in Quantum of Solace. Of course, real Bond fans know that the film’s version of “Bolivia” was actually filmed in the Atacama Desert in Chile.

Some have complained about Bond wearing jeans for these scenes, but it’s actually very utilitarian and – come on already, people – this was 2008, not 1958. With some jeans costing thousands of dollars, albeit impractically, denim has come a long way from being the domain of the laborer.

What’d He Wear?

This is the first time we see Craig’s Bond dressing intentionally for a showdown. Naturally, since he is not Pierce Brosnan, he opts for more casual attire than a tailored suit. In Casino Royale, we saw some great casual outfits including his dark polo in the Bahamas and his blue long-sleeve polo in Venice, but those were both for relaxing situations (or, in Venice’s case, what he thought would be a relaxing day).

Here, we again see Craig’s preference for dark blue polo shirts, but matched with a pair of jeans and a dark navy zip-up jacket that has become very popular with fans.

The jacket, designed by Tom Ford who created most of Craig’s Quantum of Solace wardrobe, was inspired by Baracuta’s G4 Harrington nylon jacket. The popularity of the Quantum jacket has led to the relaunching of the Baracuta brand in 2013, with Harringtons again available from Baracuta. Like the G4, Bond’s cotton Tom Ford jacket has a button-adjusted waistband and button-fastened slash pockets. The jacket zips up the front to an extended tab on the collar, which fastens with a button. The jacket also has cuffs that fasten with a buttoned tab.

Dan's jacket, a crowd favorite, in various conditions.

Dan’s jacket, a crowd favorite, in various conditions.

His navy blue polo here is similar to the Sunspel polo worn in the Bahamas in Casino Royale, but this example is naturally by Tom Ford. Like the other, it has short sleeves, 2 dark buttons on the placket, and a chest pocket.

Dan runs, jacket off, sunglasses on, P226 in hand. If you're wondering why you missed this in the film, you didn't. This is a production photo.

Dan runs, jacket off, sunglasses on, P226 in hand. If you’re wondering why you missed this in the film, you didn’t. This is a production photo.

Well, you probably never thought you’d see it, but James Bond wears jeans! Traditionalists are shitting themselves, while more progressive fans realize this is a natural step for a non-Pierce Brosnan Bond in a casual action situation. Jeans are actually a Flemingesque touch, as he had outfitted Bond in black jeans in Dr. No and brown jeans in “For Your Eyes Only”, although never blue jeans. Bond’s great-looking denim jeans are from the Los Angeles company 7 For All Mankind, which was formed in the fall of 2000. Bond’s jeans rise to his waist with a zip fly and are worn with a black Saffiano cross-hatch leather belt with a squared silver clasp. The belt was made by Prada, because of course, and it originally cost $270.

Bond’s bootcut jeans, colored in the dark blue “Mercer” wash, are still available on 7FAM’s website for $174. Unfortunately, the middle-of-the-road sizes 30-34 are out of stock, so if you’re on the slim or larger side, you’re in luck. I am a 32-33, so alas, I can never fulfill my dream of owning James Bond’s jeans. The jeans run small, as 7FAM advises, as they are 98% cotton and 2% Spandex. For those interested in saving money (especially if you’re on the slimmer side), the “Mercer” wash is also available in the straight leg jeans. Even for an athletic type like Bond, though, these would be too restrictive for someone who has to be running and jumping through a desert hotel.

I understand enforcing the no black/brown mixing policy, but hitting someone with a car for it is pretty extreme.

I understand enforcing the no black/brown mixing policy, but hitting someone with a car for it is pretty extreme.

Craig keeps his usual casual footwear consistent, wearing a pair of brown suede Church’s Ryder III chukka boots with Dainite® studded rubber soles for extra traction while doing a shit-ton more stunts than any normal person will ever have to do. James Bond Lifestyle features a great breakdown of these shoes, which he wears with a pair of black ribbed socks.

QoSBC-boots1

If you’re looking to stick with the Baracuta theme established by the jacket, Baracuta makes their own dark brown nubuck leather desert boots, which can be found here for the reasonable price of $74.93 (at the time of this writing). Like the Ryders, the Baracuta boots have two eyelets, but they lack the signature studded rubber soles.

While prepping further in the desert with Camille, Bond also wears his pair of Tom Ford TF108 aviator sunglasses, also seen on James Bond Lifestyle, with smoke blue Italian handmade 19V lenses and black temple tips on the semi matte rhodium frame. Bond also wore these earlier when visiting Mathis’ villa in Italy. 

“So I know you’re busy assembling that gun, but, uh, what do you think of my sunglasses? They’re great, aren’t they?”

Since this is Daniel Craig, we are again treated to a beautiful Omega watch, this one a stainless Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m Co-Axial Chronometer. The case has a diameter of 42 millmeters. This is slightly more formal than the Casino Royale Planet Ocean, as it has a stainless bracelet and a black dial.

Omega: The Official Watch of MI6.

Omega: The Official Watch of MI6.

As I mentioned in the cardigan article from Quantum, this watch was auctioned by Christie’s for  £34,850 last year with all proceeds going to Unicef. Bond’s accessories – his watch, sunglasses, and boots – are all the same as he wore in that scene, actually.

What to Imbibe

The “Cervecita” beer that Bond drinks with Felix is a fictional label, as “cervecita” is just the Spanish word for a small beer. Since this was Bolivia, Bond and Felix would likely be indulging in a local brew, such as the popular Cerveza Paceña made by Huari, a very tasty South American beer if you ever find yourself in La Paz.

This is like the Spanish version of those after-school PSAs where you would see teens drinking a beer clearly labeled

This is like the Spanish version of those after-school PSAs where you would see teens drinking a beer clearly labeled “BEER”.

How to Get the Look

Bond explores the various uses of navy blue. Now, so can you!

The details of the jacket are seen very clearly here, plus it's not all ripped and dirty like in the featured photo at the top of this page.

  • Dark navy blue cotton zip-up jacket with extended collar tab, button-fastened slash pockets, cuffs, and a button-adjusted waistband
    • Bond’s Tom Ford jacket is based on the Baracuta G4 Harrington jacket.
  • Navy blue short-sleeve polo shirt with a 2-button placket and chest pocket
    • Bond’s shirt is Tom Ford, of course.
  • Navy blue “Mercer” wash bootcut denim jeans
    • Bond’s jeans are by 7 For All Mankind.
  • Dark brown sueded leather 2-eyelet chukka desert boots
    • Bond’s are Church’s Ryder III boots with Dainite® studded rubber soles.
  • Black ribbed socks
    • I have no idea who made Bond’s socks. If I ever find out, I think I’ll have gone just a bit too far.
  • Black cross-hatch Saffiano leather belt with a squared silver clasp
    • Bond’s belt is Prada #2C-4099-2.
  • Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m Co-Axial Chronometer stainless steel wristwatch with steel bracelet, black face, and black bezel
  • Tom Ford TF108 aviator sunglasses with semi matte rhodium frames, black temple tips, and smoke blue 19V lenses

The Gun

Bond attacks the hotel with a SIG-Sauer P226 he lifted from a fellow agent. Offered in 9×19 mm Parabellum, .357 SIG, and .40 S&W, the P226 has joined the ranks of the Beretta 92FS and the M1911A1 as one of the more venerable and commonly used pistols in world police and military arsenals. Evidently, it is one of the primary handguns for MI6 agents as it was also used earlier in the film by traitorous agent Craig Mitchell.

Look familiar? You've probably seen the P226 in most action movies made since 1990.

Look familiar? You’ve probably seen the P226 in most action movies made since 1990.

But I’m not going to talk about the P226 today. (At least not more than I have already.)

After fighting his way to save Camille in General Medrano’s room, Bond gets his hand on the general’s personal handgun, an ornate SIG P210 with gold inlayed engraving found on all P210s that were part of the 500 made for 50 Years Special Edition in 1999 to celebrate the pistol’s fifty years of service as the “P49″ for the Swiss Army.

The

The “50 Years” commemorative edition of the SIG P210, as taken by Bond from Medrano’s room.

Originally manufactured by SIG Arms AG, which eventually became SIG-Sauer, the P210 is a short recoil operated semi-automatic pistol with a single-action locked-breech design. The 8-round magazine typically carries 9×19 mm Parabellum ammunition, as the example in the film does, with early variants also made in .30 Luger (7.65×21 mm Parabellum) and another variant, the P210-7, even chambered in .22 LR.

In 1937, SIG acquired a license for Charles Petter’s system and, based on Petter’s French Mle. 1935A pistol, developed a weapon to replace the Luger, which had been in service since 1900. The prototype of the P210 was the SIG 44/16, developed in 1944 with a 16-round magazine (Oh, so that’s how they came up with that…) After testing various models after the war, the P210 was introduced to the world in 1949. It was made continuously until 2005, by which time it was made by Swiss Arms AG, the company formerly known as SIG Arms AG. Throughout its life, the standard P210 had a 8.5″ inch overall length with a 4.7″ barrel, much like most standard full-size combat pistols, although the sports variant (P210-5) has an extended barrel that measures 150 mm, rather than the standard 120 mm barrel.

Medrano, supposed to be a rogue Bolivian military officer, certainly wouldn’t have been in the Swiss Army, but it is likely that his deluxe P210 is a gift from a fellow military colleague. Also, the filmmakers probably thought, “Damn, this gun would look badass in Bond’s hands.” They were correct.

So badass, in fact, that they used a behind-the-scenes photo of Dan playing with the P210 as the cover for the game James Bond: Blood Stone!

So badass, in fact, that they used a behind-the-scenes photo of Dan playing with the P210 as the cover for the game James Bond: Blood Stone!

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Take a deep breath, you only got one shot, make it count.

Footnotes

Thanks to James Bond Lifestyle and Matt Spaiser’s The Suits of James Bond for filling in the gaps of info needed and confirming styles and brands. These two invaluable resources should be on the bookmarks bar for any Bond fan!

Also, unrelated note, but today is my grandma’s 92nd birthday. She still finds time to work every day and cook family dinners on the weekends. Happy birthday, Grandma!



Casino Royale: Bond’s Dark Blue Suit and New Aston Martin

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Daniel Craig on set as James Bond in Casino Royale.

Daniel Craig on set as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006).

Car Week, Redux!

I hope everyone had fun with Car Week back in June. I decided to make it a semi-annual thing, every June and December. For an added bonus, this first entry features both cars and cocktails!

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, British government agent and gambler (aka “Arlington Beech”)

Montenegro, Summer 2006

Film: Casino Royale
Release Date: November 14, 2006
Director: Martin Campbell
Costume Designer: Lindy Hemming

Background

Welcome back to Car Week, BAMFs.

Readers of the 1953 novel Casino Royale likely recognized this scene, which doesn’t occur about an hour until the film, as the true start of the book. In Fleming’s novel, it is June 1951 in Royale-les-Eaux, a fictional town in northern France. Bond meets with his Deuxième Bureau contact, the affable René Mathis. Mathis introduces him to the lovely MI6 assistant Vesper Lynd. The three order drinks – a fine à l’eau for Mathis, a Bacardi cocktail for Vesper, and an Americano for Bond – and discuss the mission at hand. For interested trivia buffs, the Americano is the first cocktail consumed by the literary Bond.

Fifty-three years later, Craig’s Bond finds himself in the same position, enjoying a lovely July afternoon in an outdoor restaurant. He has already met Vesper, rechristened as a Treasury Task Force Agent, and is charmed by the nut-munching Mathis. The three enjoy flutes of champagne as a drama orchestrated by Mathis plays out behind them. During the scene, Bond is all smiles. Why? Because he has a beautiful brand new Aston Martin waiting for him outside.

What’d He Wear?

James Bond steps off the train in Montenegro wearing a sharp dark suit that would have made Ian Fleming proud with its quiet elegance. Appearing dark blue at first glance, Bond’s suit – detected by master Bond sartorialist Matt Spaiser – is a mix of charcoal gray and navy blue that results in a subtle “charcoal gray” plaid that isn’t as dark or saturated as traditional navy blue.

The suit is worsted wool and, like the other Casino Royale suits, was made by Brioni. This is a very versatile and attractive suit that would look equally appropriate in a business office during the day or a high-end restaurant at night. Bond, being Bond, doesn’t wait until the night to wear it to a restaurant, where he looks a dapper gentleman downing several glasses of champagne in it.

Bond's suit, front and back. If you're gearing up (ha) to hear about the car, be patient...

Bond’s suit, front and back. If you’re gearing up (ha) to hear about the car, be patient…

The jacket is single-breasted with notch lapels and a 3-button front, worn with only the center button fastened. There is a welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, and a single rear vent in the back, all hallmarks of a traditional business suit. It is fitted with straight shoulders and a clean chest, but the sleeves are long and don’t allow much of the shirt’s cuffs to be seen in natural wear. The 4-button cuffs are surgeon’s cuffs, with Craig/Bond wearing the last button undone. Leaving a cuff button undone is a caddish way of showing the world that you have a bespoke suit and, yes, you can afford it. Some argue that this new development is a bit too caddish for Bond, but – as Vesper says – he does wear his suit with “disdain”.

The life of a spy.

The life of a spy.

The suit trousers aren’t pleated, but they aren’t necessarily traditionally “flat front” either; they have a darted front. Like surgeon’s cuffs, darted front trousers are indicative of bespoke suits and ease the trousers over the hips without the “billowing” effect that some men experience in pleated pants. The trousers continue down the straight-cut legs to the turn-ups (“cuffs”) at the bottom. Brioni places their trouser darts closer to the side pockets than other manufacturers; many manufacturers just place trouser darts in lieu of the pleats. His trousers are suspended by a black leather belt that fastens in the front through a square silver-toned clasp.

Bond’s shirt evokes both colors in the suit; it is pale gray poplin with light gray stripes. The large collar has a moderate spread and buttons down a front placket. The shirt – also made by Brioni – has double (French) cuffs, which Bond wears fastened by a pair of palladium-finished S.T. Dupont cufflinks.

Bond looks a lot happier when he's not being lectured about dinner jackets.

Bond looks a lot less angry when he’s not being lectured about dinner jackets.

These square cufflinks feature S.T. Dupont’s iconic “Diamond Head” pattern, which are found on many Dupont products including lighters and pens. Interestingly, the Dupont diamond head lighter was introduced in 1952, around the time the original Casino Royale book was written and published.

Bond wears these cufflinks again in several scenes in Quantum of Solace. The official model number is #5172 and more about the cufflinks can be found on James Bond Lifestyle. If you want a pair for yourself, you can dish out $296 for the real McCoy on Amazon, or you can save a bundle and order a pair of $50 replicas from Magnoli, who specialize in film costume-replicating.

You should never look unfashionable when reaching for your car's built-in glovebox defibrillator.

You should never look unfashionable when reaching for your car’s built-in glovebox defibrillator.

The tie is a silk necktie with a classic English “macclesfield” repeating pattern of white and blue squares, tied in a four-in-hand knot. Magnoli also offers a reproduction of this tie for $60, offering both “modern” (straight-sided) and “vintage” (contoured side) styles, but the tie worn by Craig would be considered the “modern” option at 3″ wide. The vintage version tapers to 2.25″ wide, making a smaller knot than we see in the film.

A stoic Dan.

A stoic Dan.

Bond arrives in Montenegro with a very Fleming-esque navy blue raincoat with a subtle tonal stripe. I’m unsure of the maker, but Fleming often outfitted his hero in a Burberry coat, and this would not be an uncharacteristic choice for Bond. However, given Brioni’s presence in the film – and this outfit in particular – the raincoat is likely a Brioni item. The lightweight raincoat is a fine choice for a European summer day. It is single-breasted with three buttons in the front and a belt, but Bond wears the coat open. A flapped breast pocket slants slightly toward the center of the coat, and flaps over the hip pockets keep any potential items dry in inclement weather.

Arlington Beech.

Arlington Beech.

Bond’s shoes are a pair of black leather 4-eyelet plain-toe John Lobb “Becketts” oxfords. John Lobb’s association with James Bond was well-publicized when Lobb announced a partnership for Casino Royale. In most recent films, though, Brosnan and Craig wear Church’s shoes. You can currently purchase a pair of John Lobb Becketts on their site for $13,920. I will repeat that. $13,920. For a pair of shoes. Most college students drive a car worth half that.

This - this! - is the lone glimpse we get of the $14,000 John Lobb shoes worn by Daniel Craig in this scene.

This – this! – is the lone glimpse we get of the $14,000 John Lobb shoes worn by Daniel Craig in this scene.

While we’re on the subject of luxury items, the Montenegro arrival is one of the first scenes to show off Bond’s second Casino Royale watch, a stainless steel Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 2220.80.00 with a stainless steel bracelet and 41 mm case, a blue bezel, and a blue face. If you’ve got a few thousand dollars but not enough to buy an insanely expensive pair of shoes, check out Amazon and pick up one of the 2220.80.00s they’ve got available. If you’d just like to learn, James Bond Lifestyle has even more about this watch. Bond’s Omega is a self-winding chronometer with a co-axial escapement movement with a rhodium-plated finish. The sapphire crystal is domed, anti-reflective, and scratch-resistant, and the watch itself is water resistant down to 300 meters.

He may be an adventurer, but Bond's watch is more in danger of having 300 drinks splashed on it than going 300 meters underwater.

He may be an adventurer, but Bond’s watch is more in danger of having 300 drinks splashed on it than going 300 meters underwater.

In prior scenes, Bond wore a “Big Size” Planet Ocean, a slightly less formal Omega Seamaster on a rubber strap.

Finally, Bond oozes cool behind a pair of Persol 2720 sunglasses with turtle frames and green lenses. This particular model is color code 24/31.  Like the Seamaster, this is a switch-up from his earlier sunglasses, which were the metal-framed Persol 2244s. For more images and info, check out James Bond Lifestyle’s entry about these specs.

The obligatory badass-removes-his-sunglasses shot.

The obligatory badass-removes-his-sunglasses shot.

What to Imbibe

As I mention above, the filmmakers replaced Bond’s Americano with champagne for the scene. This is a forgivable choice, as it was likely a very delicious champagne, but the Americano sadly has been nearly forgotten in modern fiction. I certainly try to keep it alive, ordering Americanos at Girasole (a delicious Italian restaurant in the Shadyside area of Pittsburgh), but I could’ve used some help from Casino Royale!

Do you have these things in your house? Pull them aside. You're gonna need them.

Do you have these things in your house? Pull them aside. You’re gonna need them.

Americano

The Americano isn’t for everyone. The main ingredient is Campari, a very bitter Italian apéritif. Campari was invented in 1860 by master drink maker Gaspare Campari. He had developed his liqueur years earlier, when he was 14, but it was in 1860 when he officially founded the Campari Group to market it. Until 2006, it gained its distinctive red color from carmine dye. Why did they stop using it? Carmine dye is derived from crushed cochineal insects, so… maybe 2006 was a bit late to stop making liquor out of bug guts.

Campari is often drank with soda, but it is also an integral part of cocktails like the Negroni, the Garibaldi, and – of course – the Americano.

The Americano cocktail is Italian, obviously. It was originally known as the Milano-Torino because of where the ingredients came from (Campari from Milan; Cinzano vermouth from Turin). Campari himself introduced the cocktail at Caffè Campari, his bar in Turin. In the early 1900s, Americans forming the early part of the expatriate movement found themselves in Italy, where they naturally ordered the regional cocktail to look cosmopolitan. Bartenders noticed the trend and the clunky “Milano-Torino” name was replaced by the “Americano”.

So what’s in an Americano? Chances are, you don’t have the sort of liquor cabinet that will yield the contents naturally. However, you’re reading this blog, so you do know a thing or two about being a gentleman, i.e. having a full bar. An Americano is made by putting a few ice cubes into an old fashioned glass. “That’s just a glass of ice,” you say. Just wait, there’s more.

Pour one measure of Campari and one measure of sweet red Italian vermouth over the ice. Add a splash of soda water and stir the ingredients together with half an orange slice to garnish. If you’re a more old fashioned type – as Bond would have been – you’ll add a lemon peel, with the lemon zest giving the drink an extra bit of bitterness.

Voilà!

Voilà!

Bond offer his own insight in the 1960 story “From a View to a Kill”:

James Bond had his first drink of the evening at Fouquet’s. It was not a solid drink. One cannot drink seriously in French cafés. Out of doors on a pavement in the sun is no place for vodka or whisky or gin. A fine a l’eau is fairly serious, but it intoxicates without tasting very good. A quart de champagne or a champagne à l’orange is all right before luncheon, but in the evening one quart leads to another quart and a bottle of indifferent champagne is a bad foundation for the night. Pernod is possible, but it should be drunk in company, and anyway Bond had never liked the stuff because its liquorice taste reminded him of his childhood. No, in cafés you have to drink the least offensive of the musical comedy drinks that go with them, and Bond always had the same thing – an Americano – bitter Campari, Cinzano, a large slice of lemon peel and soda. For the soda he always specified Perrier, for in his opinion expensive soda water was the cheapest way to improve a poor drink.

Drink this when you’re feeling adventurous. I don’t see it as an every day cocktail, but it sure shakes things up nicely. Plus, if a woman sees you drinking it, she will think you’re exotic and European.

How to Get the Look

Bond wears strong colors – blue and gray – for his arrival in Montenegro. Strong colors are smart, especially when arriving in town for a high-stakes poker game when all eyes will be watching you. If Bond showed up in a pale pink polo and rumpled Dockers, I don’t think Le Chiffre would’ve been weeping blood about it.

Daniel Craig double-fisting champagne as James Bond in Casino Royale.

Daniel Craig double-fisting champagne as James Bond in Casino Royale.

  • Charcoal blue worsted wool Brioni suit, consisting of:
    • Single-breasted jacket with notch lapels, 3-button front, welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, 4-button surgeon’s cuffs, and single rear vent
    • Darted-front straight-leg trousers with side pockets and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Navy blue tonal-striped single-breasted raincoat
  • Pale blue (with light gray stripes) long-sleeve button-down poplin dress shirt with large moderate-spread collar, front placket, and double/French cuffs
  • Blue & white “macclesfield” repeating-square patterned silk necktie
  • Square palladium-finished “diamond head” cufflinks
    • Bond’s cufflinks are S.T. Dupont #2172, but Magnoli Clothiers also makes a replica version at a more attainable price.
  • Black leather belt with a square silver-toned clasp
  • Black leather 4-eyelet plain-toe oxfords
    • Bond wears John Lobb “Becketts” model oxfords.
  • Black dress socks
  • Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 2220.80.00 with a blue bezel and face on a stainless 41mm case and bracelet
  • Persol 2720 sunglasses (color code 24/31)

The Car

Many Bond fans were excited about the return of the DB5, first issued to Bond in Goldfinger more than forty years earlier. However, car enthusiasts were lining up to catch a glimpse of Aston Martin’s latest grand tourer, the 2007 Aston Martin DBS V12.

So Bond's company sends him to a casino for work, gives him an unlimited expensive account (mostly used for booze), and issues him a V12 Aston Martin... and he still tries to quit by the end of the movie? Gimme a break!

So Bond’s company sends him to a casino for work, gives him an unlimited expensive account (mostly used for booze), and issues him a V12 Aston Martin… and he still tries to quit by the end of the movie? Gimme a break!

Craig’s DBS V12 is the spiritual successor to Connery’s DB5. As the first car issued to Bond on screen, the DB5 set a gold standard for Bond’s gadget cars, complete with machine guns, an oil slick, and an ejector seat. (I must be joking.)

The first car we see Craig driving in Casino Royale is a Ford Mondeo. Let’s forget about that for a second. While still in the Bahamas, Bond wins “a beautiful 1964 Aston Martin” from terrorist Dimitrios, a left-hand-drive tribute to his wheels in Goldfinger and Thunderball. This, as we can believe from Skyfall, is the personal car of Craig’s Bond. Thus, his first MI6-issued car is the ’07 DBS V12. This car had less frills than the DB5, with a glovebox defibrillator standing as the car’s lone gadget.

Although audiences first saw the Marek Reichman-designed DBS V12 in Casino Royale, released in the fall of 2006, it wasn’t until nearly a year later when the car was officially unveiled at the 2007 Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance on August 16, 2007. The car gleamed in a brand new color, a blue-tinted graphite gray called “Casino Ice”, further recalling the car’s use in the film. The car wasn’t officially delivered to customers – the sort of customers who buy $14,000 shoes, mind you – until the first quarter of 2008.

Customers weren’t disappointed. The 5935cc 48-valve V12 engine from the DBR9 and DBRS9 received extensive modifications to produce the 510 horsepower “6.0-litre” engine in the new DBS. (That’s nearly three times the amount of power my first car, a 1992 Plymouth Acclaim, offered.) The V12, which has a compression ratio of 10.9:1, also includes an active bypass valve which opens above 5500 rpm, allowing more air into the engine to increase performance. In case you don’t know what I mean by “increased performance”, consider the DBS V12’s track times of 4.3 seconds from 0-62 mph and a top speed of 191 mph. The optional six-speed automatic “Touchtronic” transmission decreases top speed to 183 mph, but James Bond doesn’t drive an automatic transmission. In fact, there was even a series of nasty rumors at the time of filming that Daniel Craig couldn’t drive a manual transmission. The rumors were spread by pro-Brosnan-ists who couldn’t conceive of a blonde-haired man in the role. These Brosnanites (I like that term better) failed to realize that Daniel Craig is English and that almost all cars in Europe are equipped with manual transmissions. Needless to say, Craig had no problem driving the manual transmission on Bond’s DBS V12.

R.I.P.

R.I.P.

2007 Aston Martin DBS V12

Body Style: 2+2 grand tourer

Layout: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive (RWD)

Engine: 5.9 L 48-valve V12

Power: 510 hp (380 kW; 517 PS) @ 6500 rpm

Torque: 570 lb·ft (420 N·m) @ 5750 rpm

Transmission: 6-speed manual

Wheelbase: 107.9 inches (2741 mm)

Length: 185.9 inches (4722 mm)

Width: 75 inches (1905 mm)

Height: 50.4 inches (1280 mm)

As Zachary Taylor’s death proved, all badass things must come to an end. Bond’s DBS V12 meets an untimely demise when it flips somewhere between 800 and 64,000 times after running off the road during a chase with Le Chiffre. Since the DBS V12 was so rare at the time, given that it technically didn’t even exist yet, the car chase featured an Aston Martin DB9 modified to resemble the DBS V12 and reinforced to withstand the impact. Adam Kirley, the badass stunt driver who actually performed the stunt, had an air cannon placed behind the driver’s seat, propelling the car into a roll at the precise moment of impact. The car was driven off an 18-inch ramp at Millbrook Proving Grounds and, at more than 70 mph, the DB9 rotated seven times during filming, confirmed by the Guinness Book of Records as a new world record. While Craig certainly looks like a BAMF driving the car, it is BAMF driver Adam Kirley who deserves much credit for this harrowing stunt.

Bond’s registration plates were TT-378-20, for any trivia fans out there who already knew the bit about the Americano.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Vesper: Am I going to have a problem with you, Bond?
Bond: No. Don’t worry, you’re not my type.
Vesper: Smart?
Bond: Single.

Zing!

Zing!

Footnotes

For a great in-depth breakdown of this suit, visit Matt Spaiser’s examination on The Suits of James Bond.

A very cool Bond fan recreated Bond’s “Arlington Beech” passport that he refers to in this scene.


Daniel Craig in The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo

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Daniel Craig as Mikhail Blomkvist in The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo (2011).

Daniel Craig as Mikael Blomkvist in The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo (2011).

Sorry this one took me long, fellas. I had planned to have it up by Tuesday (timed for the “polar vortex” ooooh…) but it’s a long-ass movie with a lot of clothes. However, this should still be pretty well-timed for anyone in North America dealing with record low temperatures this winter.

Vitals

Daniel Craig as Mikael Blomkvist, disgraced Swedish investigative journalist

Hedestad, Sweden, Winter 2006

Background

This isn’t one of those movies you pop in just for a laugh on a summer day or to fall asleep to. The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo is a very dark (both thematically and literally) film that’ll stick with you for days after watching. It’s long – closer to 3 hours than 2 – but the fast-paced, heart-racing sequences and the stellar acting, particularly from leads Daniel Craig and Rooney Mara, make the time fly.

Craig plays Mikael Blomkvist, a journalist in some hot water after his investigation into a corrupt businessman resulted in a libel case. He is mysteriously called to the home of Henrik Vanger (the always excellent and debonair Christopher Plummer) and thrown into a dark investigation of a forty-year-old murder.

Craig does a nice job not reminding the audiences that he is James Bond. Although not a slob, his Mikael is much less appearance-driven than Bond and certainly much less of an action hero. He isn’t an anti-hero, as he is always driven by his desire to do the right thing although he often takes it too far and gets himself in trouble.

As I said, it was a very dark movie, thus most – if not all – of the images I captured had to be brightened to use here. Of course, this was David Fincher so I wouldn’t expect anything less.

What’d He Wear?

He wears a few dark suits in the beginning, which I’ll cover at some point, but Mikael spends most of the film in various layered sweaters and vests, almost always worn with an outer coat, a pair of jeans, and dark leather boots.

Since the film takes place over the course of a year (although I guess most of the action is relegated to the first few months of 2006), Mikael is seen often wearing the same clothing, but paired differently. Unlike most movies, this is a very realistic depiction of a person’s wardrobe. James Bond probably goes away for the week-long mission with six business suits, two dinner suits, and eighteen shirts, all meant to be worn once. With Mikael’s outfits, we see plenty of repetition, but it is always in different combinations depending on the weather, situation, and – likely – his laundry cycle.

A lot of help came from commenters like Brandon L., Craig Richards, Roman, and JM88. Brandon directed me to this Ask Ugeta link to answer a lot of questions about clothing brands in the film.

Thus, I think the most practical way to present the attire is to list it all out, presented in the order of its appearance, then to describe each combo by the situation.

The List

Mikael wears two winter coats while in Hedestad, one for more formal occasions and the other a more casual winter coat:

  • A dark charcoal single-breasted 3-button wool overcoat with notch lapels, a welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and a large rear single vent.
  • A gray wool down jacket with a zip front with a 5-snap placket, a 2-snap standing collar, a snap-flapped breast pocket, zip slash side pockets, tightly elasticized cuffs to keep out snow and weather, and a snap under the rear collar. This jacket is the Moncler “Cezanne” model, which is unfortunately out of production. Brandon sent me this photo of the jacket, which shows a brand logo on the breast pocket which was evidently removed for the film.

Underneath his winter coats, Mikael typically wears either a cardigan sweater or a sport coat. His sport coats consist of:

  • A gray single-breasted sport coat with small-notched lapels, 2-button front, welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, and 4-button cuffs. The natural shoulders have roped sleeveheads.
  • A black unstructured single-breasted blazer with cran necker-style lapels, a 2-button front, a breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, and unfastened surgeon’s cuffs.

GDTc-crop1The sweaters are:

  • A chunky dark charcoal ribbed cardigan sweater with a low button stance and large shawl lapels. It just looks like a charcoal gray in the film, but some production photos (including the one at the top of this post) give the sweater a blue-ish tint. Not as blue as the scarf, but a shade darker than his jeans. It likely is a dark charcoal blue, but it appears grayer in the film, so you can be your own judge there. It was made by Maison Martin Margiela.
  • A very dark gray cashmere v-neck long-sleeve pullover sweater with horizontally-pleated shoulders and pleats down each arm to elasticized cuffs.
  • A gray cashmere cardigan sweater with shawl lapels and ribbed/elasticized cuffs. It has a knit pattern that slightly resembles that of a fisherman’s sweater.
  • A charcoal merino wool cardigan sweater with shawl lapels and a high 5-button stance. This isn’t seen until later in the film, but it is noticably thinner than the chunky sweater and has a higher button stance. The Ask Ugeta article mentions a Tom Ford cardigan being worn; as this resembles the black Tom Ford cardigan in Quantum of Solace, it is likely this one.

Mikael also shows a fondness for vests. Since Daniel Craig is British, though, he would probably call them waistcoats. Whatever you call them, they are:

  • A gray pick-and-pick (or “sharkskin”) vest with a 6-button front, two welted lower pockets, and a notched bottom. The buttons are black, and Mikael usually leaves the bottom button unfastened.
  • A dark charcoal flannel vest with a 5-button front and a notched bottom. The buttons here are also black, and Mikael indeed leaves the bottom button unfastened.
  • A light gray vest with 7 black buttons down the front to a notched bottom. There are four welted pockets – two chest and two lower – and Mikael continues to leave his bottom button undone.

Most of Mikael’s shirts are very Columbo-esque wrinkled button-down shirts, including:

  • A light gray button-down casual shirt with a narrow double-buttoned collar, button-flapped breast pocket, thin front placket with white buttons, and buttoned barrel cuffs.
  • A black soft button-down shirt with black buttons. This appears to be a different fabric and style than the wrinkled utility-style shirts.
  • A black button-down shirt with white buttons on the front placket.
  • A light blue button-down casual shirt with a narrow double-buttoned collar, button-flapped breast pocket, thin front placket with white buttons, and buttoned barrel cuffs.
  • A dark blue (with a green plaid check) long-sleeve button-down shirt with white buttons. The cuffs and gauntlets both have buttons, but Mikael only fastens the gauntlet buttons.

A few commenters have pointed out that most of Craig’s shirts in the film are lightweight cotton poplin work shirts made by the American company Save Khaki United. Although the shirts offered during the filming are no longer available, the site still has very similar and very cool shirts that Mikael would wear. Thanks to Craig Richards and JM88 for pointing this out! The shirts are featured in a Youtube video by David Zarinsky of The Z Lifestyle.

The company also offers t-shirts and cardigan sweaters very similar to the one worn by Dan in the flick.

This is a good sweater movie if you're, you know, a sweater guy.

This is a good sweater movie if you’re, you know, a sweater guy.

Mikael wears both t-shirts and henleys as undershirts:

  • A blue henley with four shiny black buttons.
  • A medium-gray short-sleeve t-shirt.
  • A plain white short-sleeve t-shirt.
  • A gray long-sleeve henley with four white buttons.
  • A dark blue long-sleeve thermal henley with three dark blue buttons.

Mikael has a preference for jeans, although he sports a pair of casual trousers from time to time. The belt situation varies, but when he wears one it is a dark brown leather belt with a dulled silver rectangular clasp. His pants include:

  • Dark blue wash straight-cut denim jeans, made by Scotch & Soda in their “Ralston” slim cut. (According to this link and a briefly-seen logo during the climax.) The bottoms are usually cuffed a little bit.
  • Dark gray flat front casual trousers with plain-hemmed bottoms and jeans-style 5-pocket layout.

Mikael wears laced leather boots, a wise choice for stomping around in the snowy winters of Sweden. He has at least two pairs in black and brown. According to the Ask Ugeta link above:

[Mikael] also had a great pair of carmel color boots he wore a lot that I also loved; they were like an ankle oxford. These were by Crockett & Jones which you can get at Barneys, or if you’re in  NYC or London they have their own stores. He also wore a black leather round toe lace up ankle boot by Fiorentini & Baker and a grey suede lace up boot by Costume National.

Things might look pretty repetitive here, so if you’re looking for a scene in particular, scroll ’til you find it. I wanted to be thorough here, but that can also mean boring. Hopefully the screenshots will liven things up a bit. Here we go!

The Breakdown

When he first meets with Henrik in Hedestad, around Christmas 2005, he wears the charcoal overcoat over the gray sport coat, light gray button-down shirt, gray pick-and-pick vest, dark wash jeans with a belt, and black leather boots. He accessorizes (and keeps himself warm) with a thick charcoal blue and gray striped wool scarf, worn in most of his outdoor scenes in Hedestad. He wears his Omega watch and his Mykita acetate glasses, both of which I will discuss at the bottom of this section.

GDTc-no1

After meeting with Henrik, Mikael goes back to the Millennium magazine office and sees Erika. Not much is seen below the waist here, but he definitely wears the chunky charcoal cardigan and the first blue henley.

GDTc-no2

Mikael returns to Hedestad, this time to stay for the investigation. He alights from the train wearing his gray wool down jacket, the striped wool scarf, his dark jeans, black leather boots, and – naturally for Dan – his Omega watch. We don’t see anything under the coat since the next scene is him in his pajamas, but we do see an additional outerwear accessory: a dark gray tobbogan (“beanie”) hat. Interestingly, it is this cold with him wearing a hat, scarf, and insulated winter coat, but he wears no gloves? Is this just a Swedish thing or what?

GDTc-no3

The next day, Mikael meets with Henrik. It is just as cold as the previous day, but he wears his more formal charcoal overcoat with the charcoal blue and gray striped scarf.

GDTc-no4

Mikael returns to his computer to get some invetsigating done. He wears the chunky charcoal cardigan, a gray t-shirt, and the charcoal flannel vest. He is also sporting his Mykita acetate glasses.

When Mikael meets with retired detective Morrell, he wears the charcoal overcoat, his light gray button-down shirt, and his dark jeans. He again wears his Omega watch and the Mykita glasses. There is a newly seen item here, a dark gray cashmere v-neck sweater. He only wears it in this scene and towards the end when talking to Erika.

GDTc-no6

For dinner with Martin Vanger and his wife, Mikael wears his dark overcoat and scarf when outside. His dinner attire is a black unstructured blazer, the light gray button-down shirt, dark wash jeans, and dark brown laced boots.

GDTc-no7

Soon after, Mikael is talking to another Vanger when Cecilia stops by his shack. For this visit, he wears the dark charcoal cardigan, a black long-sleeve button-down shirt, a gray t-shirt, dark wash jeans, and his Mykita glasses.

GDTc-no8

Evidently in a mood to keep talking to the Vanger kids, Mikael heads off to see Anita via plane. For the plane ride, he wears a soft gray cashmere cardigan sweater, a light gray button-down, and a light gray t-shirt, all paired with the gray pick-and-pick vest, dark wash jeans, and black leather boots. His trusty Omega is on his left wrist, and he also whips out his Mykita glasses from time to time. When he steps off the plane and goes to see Anita, he is wearing his charcoal overcoat and the striped scarf.

Another thanklessly long day for Mikael Blomkvist.

Another thanklessly long day for Mikael Blomkvist.

When he gets back to Hedestad, Erika visits him. He is wearing his Moncler gray down jacket, the dark gray toboggan, the charcoal blue and gray striped scarf, and the same gray cashmere sweater and light gray t-shirt from his trip to see Anita. He is wearing a black button-down shirt, this one with white buttons, and a dark gray pair of flat front trousers, perhaps feeling more formal with his main squeeze in town.

GDTc-no10

Mikael the photographer treks into the city to document some of the locations where Harriet had spent her last known day. The photo at the top of this post is a production still from this scene. Mikael is wearing his chunky dark charcoal cardigan, the charcoal blue and gray striped scarf,  the charcoal flannel vest, dark blue denim jeans, and black leather boots. His shirt is a light blue version of the light gray button-down casual shrit he’s worn so much of in the film. Naturally, he also wears his Mykita glasses.

Is that a Dell he's using? Hewlett-Packard? Hm. Either way, it's subtle.

Is that a Dell he’s using? Hewlett-Packard? Hm. Either way, it’s subtle.

Mikael’s daughter comes to visit him after his adventure in the city. After she leaves, Mikael knocks back some Cragganmore with Dirch Frode. During this whole sequence, he wears the chunky dark charcoal cardigan, a light gray t-shirt, dark wash jeans, and black leather boots. He wears a light gray vest under the cardigan, but it is lighter than his pick-and-pick vest and has 7 black buttons as opposed to 6. He also wears his Mykita glasses and Omega watch. When outside, his outerwear is the gray wool Moncler down jacket, his dark gray toboggan, and the charcoal blue and gray striped scarf.

Mikael Blomkvist: Disgruntled dad.

Mikael Blomkvist: Disgruntled dad.

After Mikael discovers that Lisbeth Salander has been investigating him, he goes into Dragan “Serbian Guy from ER” Armansky’s office wearing the dark charcoal cardigan, the charcoal flannel vest, dark jeans, and the light blue casual button-down shirt.

GDTc-no13

When he finally goes to meet Lisbeth Salander for a memorable scene in her apartment, he wears the black unstructured blazer from his dinner with Martin, paired with a gray scarf, the light gray 7-button vest, dark jeans worn with a dark brown leather belt, and a black long-sleeve button-down shirt with white buttons.

Dan gets much cheekier when he takes off his scarf.

Dan gets much cheekier when he takes off his scarf.

Mikael heads back alone to the Vangers’ island, wearing his dark charcoal overcoat, light blue wrinkled button-down shirt, a white t-shirt, the light gray 7-button vest, and dark jeans, again with the dark brown leather belt. Black leather boots appear to be his footwear of choice here.

Something is amiss...

Something is amiss…

In mid-April 2006, Henrik is hospitalized and Salander finally arrives to help Mikael with the investigation. He heads to the hospital to visit the family in his gray cashmere cardigan, a medium gray t-shirt, his dark charcoal overcoat, and the charcoal blue and gray striped scarf.

GDTc-no16

Mikael runs some mostly photo-related errands wearing his dark charcoal cardigan, gray pick-and-pick vest, and dark wash jeans. The new item here is a gray long-sleeve henley. The standard items here are the Mykita eyeglasses and his black and stainless Omega watch.

After a few tries, Mikael finally nails the whole how-to-wear-glasses thing.

After a few tries, Mikael finally nails the whole how-to-wear-glasses thing.

The action really starts picking up when Mikael is shot at! For this, he wears a newly-seen thin charcoal cardigan (not the chunky one!) with the light gray t-shirt, dark jeans, and black leather boots.

At last, some sort of close-up of Mikael's footwear!

At last, some sort of close-up of Mikael’s footwear!

The next day, Mikael goes to meet Martin and Frode at the Vanger office. His outerwear is the charcoal overcoat, dark gray tobbogan, and the charcoal blue and gray scarf. Inside the office, he sheds his layers and wears the gray cashmere sweater, black casual button-down with white buttons, medium gray t-shirt, dark blue jeans, and black laced leather boots.

GDTc-no19

After this, we get to the climatic day as Mikael faces off against the film’s big villain! If you want a spoiler, highlight this: Martin Vanger. If you didn’t want a spoiler, I hope you didn’t highlight that…

At least Mikael would've gone to his maker with a glass of good whisky..?

At least Mikael would’ve gone to his maker with a glass of good whisky..?

In this sequence, Mikael wears his dark charcoal overcoat. Since it’s getting slightly warmer, probably around late April or early May around this time, he isn’t wearing a sweater or a vest. Instead, he layers a dark blue long-sleeve button-down shirt with a green plaid check over a dark blue thermal henley. He wears his dark blue Scotch & Soda jeans without a belt as well as his brown boots and Mykita acetate glasses.

The details! Note the Scotch & Soda logo on the jeans' branding patch.

The details! Note the Scotch & Soda logo on the jeans’ branding patch.

Chances are, it’s gonna be tough for me to avoid spoilers here, so read with caution if you haven’t seen the film. Mikael (he lives, yay!) takes a return flight to Anita wearing a gray-ish unstructured overcoat with peak lapels and surgeon’s cuffs. I can’t tell much about this coat, as it’s only seen in one shot, so fuck that coat. He also wears a black long-sleeve casual button-down shirt with black buttons.

Do we know anything about this coat?

Do we know anything about this coat?

When he goes to confront Anita with the truth, he shows up on her doorstep at night wearing a newly-seen scarf. The scarf looks like it is gray cashmere with a dark gray and blue check. The jacket is his dark charcoal overcoat, paired with dark wash jeans and he is wearing a a pair of brown leather laced calfskin split-toe medallion bluchers. The confusion doesn’t end for me when he is seen talking to Anita in the park. Here, it looks like he wearing a black windbreaker with upturned collars.

Mikael goes to see Anita, wearing different jackets for night and day.

Mikael goes to see Anita, wearing different jackets for night and day.

However, some production photos exist of him wearing the brown shoes with a black peacoat and gray scarf. Can anyone shed light on this? By this point, I’d been screencapping the film for about four hours, so I may not have been thinking straight as I took notes.

WTF mates?

WTF mates?

For Henrik’s reuniting with Anita/Harriet, things finally get back to normal for me sartorially as Mikael wears his thin charcoal cardigan, light blue wrinkled shirt, long-sleeve gray henley, gray casual trousers, and Omega watch.

GDTc-no23

Later, possibly around June 2006, Mikael is talking to Erika. He wears the light blue wrinkled shirt under the dark pleated-shoulder sweater worn for the Morrell interview. He appears to also have a thin dark-colored cardigan over this whole affair. Mikael’s accessories here are his loyal Mykita glasses and Omega watch. A production photo shows that he is also wearing his dark jeans.

The actual scene (left) and an obviously-posed production photo (right) plus glasses and Omega.

The actual scene (left) and an obviously-posed production photo (right) plus glasses and Omega.

Finally, around Christmas 2006, Mikael is watching the news with the Millennium staff. He is wearing his gray cashmere cardigan, the light gray 7-button vest, the black button-down shirt with white buttons, dark gray casual trousers, black laced boots, and his Mykita glasses, which dangle from his face.

"Dan, again with the glasses? We've been over this..."

“Dan, again with the glasses? We’ve been over this…”

Well, that was an adventure.

The Accessories

Mikael has three accessories that he wears nearly all the time. One, which he is never seen without, is a silver pendant on a thin silver chain throughout the film. I don’t know the significance of this, and I have yet to actually read the books (I know, I know!) so I don’t know if it were mentioned there.’

See, it's gotta be significant somehow?!

See, it’s gotta be significant somehow!

Since Dan Craig is an Omega man, his watch in the film is an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Chronometer 231.13.39.21.06.001. It has a 38.5 mm round stainless steel case, a teak-gray dial with a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a black leather strap. If you’re interested, check out Omega’s site and see what you can get.

This actually does make me want an Omega. Advantage, Product Placement.

This actually does make me want an Omega. Advantage, Product Placement.

Mikael also wears a very cool set of eyeglasses, a pair of Mykita Collection No. 2 “Helmut” acetate eyeglasses with brown tortoiseshell (“Peridot”) frames.

Pretty nice specs, too.

Pretty nice specs, too.

The Pajamas

Just for shits and giggles, and since he spends a good bit of time in them, let’s quickly talk about Mikael’s pajamas. He wears a set of dark red and blue flannel pajamas with a button-down top and elastic-waisted bottoms. Since it’s cold as heck, he wears light gray wool socks and almost always has an undershirt, whether it’s a dark blue henley or a gray t-shirt. He often wears his dark charcoal cardigan over the pajamas, even sleeping in it. For pajama investigations, he puts on the Mykita glasses, and when he has to step outside, he wears a pair of black leather boots with orange lining.

GDTc-pjs

Go Big or Go Home

For a badass movie that takes no prisoners, Mikael is a pretty mild-tempered character. He is more like Daniel Craig’s pragmatic gun-hating drug dealer from Layer Cake than James Bond and is very dedicated to his work and doing a good job. While this may land him in hot water when he goes too far, it also endears him to women and friends.

Speaking of badass, the title sequence immediately sets the stage for the disturbing film, with a rendition of Led Zeppelin’s “Immigrant Song” by Trent Reznor of Nine Inch Nails and vocals from Karen O. of the Yeah Yeah Yeahs.

The Product Placement Gods have also made it very easy to replicate Mikael’s style. In addition to the clothes above, you can nab a 2nd generation Apple MacBook Pro and hook it up to a Lacie d2 Quadra external hard drive and an Epson Stylus Office BX320FW printer and – voila! – you’ll be able to solve forty-year-old murders!

Although I doubt your iPhoto roll would be so vintage.

Although I doubt your iPhoto roll would be so vintage.

He also smokes Marlboro Reds, but the Philip Morris folks frown on product placement and probably aren’t too crazy about his habit of buying a pack just to smoke one cigarette and toss the rest away.

Was anyone else surprised by all the Apple product placement in a Sony movie? Sure, they gave Mikael (and Lisbeth) a Sony Ericsson Cybershot phone and a black flat screen Sony TV, but using an Apple computer was a pretty big surprise. If you’re gonna fill your cabinet like Mikael, have some nutella and Felix Rårörda Lingon jam on hand. Now when it comes to booze…

What to Imbibe

Mikael himself keeps Cragganmore 12-Year-Old single malt Scotch whisky in his home on the Vanger grounds, drinking it neat when Dirch Frode visits.

GDTc-cragganmore1

When he heads to Martin’s household, first for a social visit, he drinks a glass of Château Clinet red wine from Pomerol with Martin and his wife.

GDTc-wine1

When he returns a few months later, for a decidedly more sinister visit, he is offered a glass of Mackmyra Brukswhisky, a very appropriately-placed Swedish single malt whisky. Due to the bottle, many people mistake this for Bruichladdich (which is also awesome), but it is indeed Mackmyra.

Based on the label color, this is evidently a different expression but Mackmyra nonetheless.

Based on the label color, this is evidently a different expression but Mackmyra nonetheless.

Mikael also chugs vodka when he needs it, pouring two mini-bottles for a double vodka on the plane and drinking straight from the bottle after he is shot at.

Vodka is Mikael's comfort in times of comfort and in times of stress.

Vodka is Mikael’s comfort in times of comfort and in times of stress.

Thanks to blog commenter Roman, who has identified the “bathtub” vodka as the Swedish brand Vanlig, which I was unfamiliar with before this post. The mini-bottles on the plane are likely Absolut, another Swedish brand to keep things regionally accurate.

How to Get the Look

This is pretty much what I did up there. Go up and read it again if you wanna look like Mikael so badly.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the film.

The Quote

The last time I reported on something without being absolutely sure I lost my life savings.


Skyfall – Bond’s Glen Plaid Suit in London

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Daniel Craig as James Bond in Skyfall (2012).

Daniel Craig as James Bond in Skyfall (2012).

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, recently re-instated British secret agent

London, Spring 2012

Background

For the last 007th of the month, I broke down the first Glen check suit worn by Sean Connery in From Russia With Love. Almost fifty years later, Skyfall‘s costume designer Jany Temime worked with clothier Tom Ford to create an updated look for Daniel Craig’s James Bond.

What’d He Wear?

Like the aforementioned From Russia With Love outfit, Bond wears a Glen check suit with a light blue shirt, dark blue tie, black shoes, and pocketsquare. The similarities end there as the details of each garment show a more fashion-driven Bond in 2012.

The suit itself is a Glen plaid in mid-gray and black, darker than the black and white Glen Urquhart check in From Russia With Love. According to Matt Spaiser on his great blog, The Suits of James Bond:

Tom Ford calls this a Prince of Wales check, however the original Prince of Wales check was much larger design in rust-brown and white with a navy box of six ends around the four and four (large houndstooth) section.

The material is a very classic look with appropriate nods to British fashion, but the cut of the suit is much too tight on Craig, and it is surprising that the seat of the pants doesn’t rip when he sits down. Craig may be the 1 in a 100 men who can wear a form-fitting suit without looking ridiculous, but it would make more sense for such a man of action to be wearing a suit that gives him a little more room to move. He’s not quite at a Tommy Boy level, but a few more vodka martinis and steak dinners would get him there.

Bond, inspecting the work of the product placement gods.

Bond, inspecting the work of the product placement gods.

That being said, the color and material of the suit is very laudable. Gray, which is used throughout the film for Bond’s attire, is flattering for Craig and makes up a little for the near-spandex look of his suits. A little.

The suit jacket is single-breasted, fastened together desperately by the center of a 3-button stance. The slim notch lapels pull at the coat due to the fight fit, and the narrow, straight shoulders leave little room for Bond’s range of motion. Especially with Craig’s athletic build, the suit should at least have more spacious natural shoulders. It’s lucky for him that he doesn’t have any major action sequences in the suit.

SF4-jacket1

Dan shows us the difference between a slight smirk and a slight grimace.

Craig has his usual surgeon’s cuffs, with the bottom of the three buttons caddishly left open to show the world that he can, indeed, afford a bespoke suit. The flapped hip pockets are on a slight slant, and a sky blue cotton handkerchief is folded neatly in the welted breast pocket. As you will soon learn, the handkerchief matches the shirt.

The flat front suit trousers have a low rise, giving chubby men another reason to avoid this suit besides popping the jacket buttons. Since Craig’s Bond is in impeccable shape, we don’t have to worry about seeing a beer gut flopping over the top of the waistband, but a low rise and tight fit should be avoided for us men who don’t hit the gym everyday. The suit’s tight fit is reflected through the narrow leg, but the cuffed bottoms add a classic touch, breaking high over the shoes.

Like Connery’s trousers, they are fitted with side adjusters and close in the front with a hook on an extended waist tab.

Well, this is awkward... Great angle of the extended tab and trouser waistline, but...

Well, this is awkward… Great angle of the extended tab and trouser waistline, but…

For all of you holding your breath during that paragraph to hear about the shirt, you’re welcome. Bond’s Tom Ford shirt is a sky blue cotton poplin that buttons down a front placket. It has the typical Skyfall soft tab collar, buttoning under the knot and keeping Craig from loosening his tie. The double/French cuffs are fastened by a pair of very unique and very Bondian cufflinks.

Jany probably was tickled that Dan's eyes so nicely match his shirt and tie also.

Jany probably was tickled that Dan’s eyes so nicely match his shirt and tie also.

Tom Ford made thirty pairs of all-new custom “Orbis Non Sufficit” cufflinks for Skyfall. For any of you non-Bond fans, “Orbis non sufficit” translates to “the world is not enough” which, yes, was Pierce Brosnan’s third Bond movie, but it is also the Bond family motto as we learn in the book and film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. The links have silver rims and the majestic family herald in silver on the black face.

You can barely see them, but there they are.

You can barely see them, but there they are.

The handkerchief is the same sky blue as the shirt, which – like unfastened surgeon’s cuffs and overly tight suits – can be regarded as caddish. A more classic move on Bond’s part would have been a white folded handkerchief, as he wore in 1963.

Bond’s tie brings everything together. Unlike the From Russia With Love tie, which was solid dark blue grenadine, this tie is dark blue silk with an alternating black and gray square check. Not only does this keep the suit to three colors, it also satisfies Temime’s apparent love for matching every item of an outfit.

SF4-med1

This scene also marks the second appearance of Crockett & Jones footwear as Bond wears a pair of plain-fronted black calf 3-eyelet derby shoes, which C&J denotes as their “Highbury” model, with this suit. The shoes are matched with black dress socks that rise high up Bond’s shins, not leaving any skin showing under the high-breaking trouser legs.

A less awkward below-the-neck shot than the, uh, previous one.

A less awkward below-the-neck shot than the, uh, previous one.

The James Bond Lifestyle has plenty of info about these and other C&J shoes worn in Skyfall, including the fact that the Highburys sell for around £350. He had previously worn a pair of “Tetbury” boots during the opening sequence in Istanbul. Both the Highbury and the Tetbury feature Dainite rubber studded soles, which provide good running traction for a secret agent who does a shitload of running.

When Bond goes to meet the new Q at the museum, he wears a black single-breasted wool overcoat. Since this is Skyfall, the coat has a short length, to just above Bond’s knees. It has notch lapels, a 3-button front, a welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, and a single rear vent. The overcoat has 3-button cuffs, and – like the suit jacket – they are surgeon’s cuffs. We know this because Bond once again keeps the last button undone.

Bond, appreciating fine art.

Bond, appreciating fine art.

Watch aficionados need not worry; Bond’s Omega didn’t have links removed to make it look like his wrist was about to burst. In fact, Bond updates his Seamaster from his Planet Ocean – seen in Istanbul – to a beautiful Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Mid Size Chronometer, reference number 231.10.39.21.03.001. As usual, it has a stainless steel bracelet and case, but the dial is a brilliant blue.

Yes, it's a lovely watch, but we need to address the elephant in the room. If for no other reason, you should keep your trousers from bulging in the front to avoid looking inappropriate in front of Dame Judi Dench.

Yes, it’s a lovely watch, but we need to address the elephant in the room. If for no other reason, you should keep your trousers from bulging in the front to avoid looking inappropriate in front of Dame Judi Dench.

Temime must have been very excited about the silver and blue in the watch matching the gray, black, and blue suit. Bond sticks with the Aqua Terra through the film’s finale. You can read more about it at the James Bond Lifestyle because that site is amazing.

Go Big or Go Home

This is pretty much Bond’s first day back at work after an absence that consisted of getting shot, kicking back on a beach, drinking to oblivion, and bedding hot Mediterranean chicks. While your vacations from work might be more along the vein of a sick leave or family trip, it’s still important to make a good impression when you return.

How to Get the Look

SF4-FULL3Bond wears a suit that is undeniably beautiful, but he should have advised his tailor that he has bulked up some and could use a size up. Learn from this; wear a timeless classic but wear it well! In this instance, you may even out-dress James Bond.

  • Gray & black Glen Plaid suit by Tom Ford, consisting of:
    • Single-breasted jacket with slim notch lapels, 3-button front, 3-button surgeon’s cuffs, welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, and a single rear vent
    • Flat front trousers with a low rise, extended waist tab with hook closure, side adjusters, slanted side pockets, and cuffed bottoms
  • Sky blue Tom Ford cotton poplin button-down dress shirt with soft tab collars, front placket, and double/French cuffs
  • Dark blue silk necktie with an alternating black and gray check
  • Silver & black Tom Ford “Orbis Non Sufficit” cufflinks
  • Black wool single-breasted thigh-length overcoat with 3-button front, 3-button surgeon’s cuffs, welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, and a single rear vent
  • Black calf 3-eyelet Crockett & Jones “Tetbury” derby shoes with Dainite studded rubber soles
  • Black dress socks
  • Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra  Mid Size Chronometer, ref. 231.10.39.21.03.001 with a stainless steel bracelet and case and a blue dial
  • Sky blue handkerchief, folded into the jacket breast pocket

The Gun

People who think they know guns but really don’t got all up in arms about hearing Q issue Bond a “Walther PPK/S, nine-millimeter short”.

“Nine-millimeter?” said the hypothetical redneck in this situation, “They only make them guns in .32 and .380!”

While the hypothetical redneck is correct that the Walther PP, PPK, PPK/S, and all derivatives are chambered in both .32 ACP and .380 ACP, he would fail to recognize that .380 ACP is the American designation for the 9×17 mm cartridge, also known as “Nine-millimeter short.” John Browning developed the .380 in 1908 for a variant of the Colt Model 1903 Pocket Hammerless, which had been only chambered in .32 ACP for the first five years of its production. The .380 is a reasonable alternative for compact pistols; although it lacks the stopping power of its larger 9×19 mm cousin (or brother, or whatever relation is used for ammunition), it is small enough to rival the .32’s capacity and packs more of a punch.

"Less of a random killing machine, more of a personal statement."

“Less of a random killing machine, more of a personal statement.”

When Ian Fleming took the advice of Geoffrey Boothroyd in the 1950s and updated Bond’s .25 Beretta to a Walther, he chambered Bond’s PPK in .32 (or “7.65 mm”), which is certainly the more popular round in that weapon. This became part of the legend, and Bond’s Walther PPK was referred to as a .32-caliber model from the book Dr. No and the film Dr. No all the way through to Quantum of Solace in 2008. In fact, when we first see Bond in Skyfall, he is still carrying his .32-caliber PPK. It isn’t until Q issues him the PPK/S in .380 that Bond is finally issued a more powerful weapon. (Ignoring the 9×19 mm Walther P99 in Tomorrow Never Dies, The World is Not Enough, Die Another Day, and Casino Royale because I choose to.)

I’ve talked about the PPK ad nauseum on the blog, due to fellas like Bond and Chris Moltisanti carrying them. The PPK/S, however, is a different story. It was introduced in response to the United States passing the Gun Control Act of 1968, which banned handguns not meeting length and weight requirements. The Walther PPK, despite its German origins, enjoyed its largest market in the United States but manage to fail the “Import Points” test because it was too light, failing the whole test by one stupid point.

Walther, made up of clever and deceptive German minds (not racist for me to say because World War II), decided to get around this by combining the larger PP’s frame with the barrel and slide of the PPK. Voila! The slightly heavier PPK/S was deemed acceptable by American import standards.

Because we insist on doing everything ourselves (see: American Revolution, Declaration of Independence, etc.), domestic production was permitted for the illegal-to-import PPK and Interarms began distributing their own version, made by Ranger Manufacturing, in 1978.

A Walther PPK/S in .380 ACP.

A Walther PPK/S in .380 ACP. This is one of the American-made ones, as it says “Under License of [Walther]”.

So what is the exact difference between the PP, the PPK, and the PPK/S? A .380 PPK/S weighs 22.4 ounces, which is slightly lighter than the PP’s 23.5 ounces but still heavier than the 21-ounce PPK. Yes, that 1.4 ounce difference made the weapon legal to import. The PPK/S is also one millimeter longer than the PPK (156 mm vs. 155 mm), although it shares the same 83 mm barrel. The PPK/S also carries one extra round in the magazines, with seven rounds of .380 and eight rounds of .32, depending on the model.

Bond’s PPK/S in Skyfall, however, has a feature you won’t see on any production Walther. Q proudly issues Bond his new pistol, custom-coded to Bond’s palm print so that only Bond can fire it. Nice work, baby Q.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the film.

The Quote

Bond’s introduction to the series’ re-booted Q is just as witty as the original Connery-Llewelyn repartee with a refreshed, thematically relevant perspective…

Q: I’m your new Quartermaster.
Bond: You must be joking.
Q: Why, because I’m not wearing a lab coat?
Bond: Because you still have spots.
Q: My complexion is hardly relevant.
Bond: Your competence is.
Q: Age is no guarantee of efficiency.
Bond: And youth is no guarantee of innovation.
Q: Well, I’ll hazard I can do more damage on my laptop sitting in my pajamas before my first cup of Earl Grey than you can do in a year in the field.
Bond: Oh, so why do you need me?
Q: Every now and then a trigger has to be pulled.
Bond: Or not pulled. It’s hard to know which in your pajamas… Q.


Skyfall – Bond’s Peacoat in Shanghai

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Daniel Craig as James Bond in Skyfall (2012).

Daniel Craig as James Bond in Skyfall (2012).

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, “resurrected” British secret agent

Shanghai, Spring 2012

Background

I’ve been on a Skyfall kick lately, so for the 007th of March I’ll once again be breaking down a sequence from James Bond’s latest cinematic adventure.

Continuing in order from where we left off in London, I should technically be writing about his swimming trunks in the Shanghai hotel*. However, I would feel awkward screencapping that so we’ll move right along to the next scene.

* If you actually are interested in what swimming trunks he was wearing, they are a pair of light blue Orlebar Brown Setter Sky shorts with a very short length and adjustable sides, recalling the similar blue shorts worn by Connery’s Bond in Thunderball.

What’d He Wear?

Earlier this week, I posted about the reefer coat worn by Michael Caine in The Italian Job. The reefer was traditionally a high-fastening, double-breasted, dark navy wool coat worn by seamen. Nearly 300 years after their conception, reefer coats – also known as pea coats – are still popular today as winter outerwear for military and civilians alike. Caine’s coat in the 1969 film was a very modern (for 1969) update made of brown suede and featuring very contemporary trends.

Daniel Craig first introduced the pea coat as part of James Bond’s on-screen wardrobe for the opening sequence of Casino Royale, but it is Skyfall where the coat is truly showcased. Given Bond’s naval background, a classic-looking navy pea coat is a very logical choice for a casual winter jacket.

In an interview with GQ, Skyfall costumer Jany Temime explained:

Another one of Daniel’s ideas: When he’s playing the chauffeur in the airport, he was the one who said, “I want to have a blue peacoat. I know Billy Reid makes very nice ones.” So I ordered ten pieces, and I must say, they put this little piece of leather on the back and it is beautiful. And paired with the chauffeur hat he’s wearing, it gives Daniel a sort of boxy look.

Bond’s navy pea coat in particular was manufactured by Billy Reid, a New York-based company that supplied twenty total pea coats to the Skyfall production, fifteen in size medium and five in size large. Since the costumers were aiming for a trimmer look in Skyfall, Daniel Craig wore medium-sized coats in his “hero” shots and large-sized coats for scenes requiring movement or badassery. (Thanks to James Bond Lifestyle for the size information.)

Bond and a Billy Reid.

Bond and a Billy Reid.

Craig himself ordered a Billy Reid pea coat post-production, and his choice of a size large indicates which scenes he preferred shooting in the coat. This is further indicated in the film itself, as Bond only buttons the center button as it would probably be too tight to move with all of them buttoned. The single rear vent also aids movement, as it would be difficult to move if the jacket was ventless.

It would also be difficult to do stuff like this.

It would also be difficult to do stuff like this.

Billy Reid’s site has offered the coat again on its site (and Amazon) for a cool $695. Given the necessary quality of a good and fashionable winter coat, this may just be worth your money. However, the coats used in the film were 100% wool while the newer run are 80% wool and 20% nylon. The coat is also unlined with cotton-bound seams.

Putting a contemporary twist on the classic pea coat, the Italian-made Billy Reid coat has a 6×3 double-breasted front, simpler than the 8 or 10-button varieties offered on most military pea coats. The buttons are brown natural buffalo horn, unlike the usual black plastic buttons with anchors on them. It has peak lapels with dark brown leather accents under the collar and underneath the pocket flaps. The hip pockets are flapped with a concealed button on the leather under each flap, but the vertical slash “hand warmer” pockets on the chest are open. Bond stores his PPK/S in one of these chest pockets before he (literally) jumps onto the elevator.

skyfall5-jacket2

Due to their short length, pea coats are not typically worn with a suit, thus making them more informal by default. Bond skirts this issue by pairing his Skyfall peacoat with a sweater and necktie rather than a suit jacket or blazer, which would look sloppy and feel clunky. Bond looks very slick in this ensemble as he weaves his way in and out of a high-rise office building in Shanghai.

Underneath the pea coat, Bond wears a white shirt, black tie, and black sweater. It’s a look that could be indicative of either a private school student, a security guard, or a policeman, but it works very well for a secret agent. (Francis Dolarhyde would hate me if he had to read that sentence. Doubly funny now that he’s the new M.)

I'll admit I was a little surprised that there wasn't a drink on the bar in front of him.

I’ll admit I was a little surprised that there wasn’t a drink on the bar in front of him.

The sweater is a black John Smedley “Bobby” v-neck pullover jumper made from 30-gauge extra-fine New Zealand merino wool. The v-neck is deep enough to show off the tie, but not quite so deep that it’s quoting Sylvia Plath. The cuffs are gently turned back, allowing Bond’s shirt cuffs to show. It is another classic item, and the official John Smedley site is still offering it in 11 different colors for £130. (Naturally, Amazon‘s also got you covered.) The other colors range from Papaya orange (eh) to midnight blue (ooh); the latter would be a very Don Draper-ish item if you’re in the mood to pick up extra Smedleys.

The white cotton shirt underneath the sweater was made by COS and has a slim spread collar and buttons down a plain front with no placket. Unlike Bond’s other Skyfall dress shirts, it has rounded single-button cuffs rather than French cuffs, but this is the appropriate choice since it’s a more informal outfit. It is still available on the COS site for £45.

Bond takes a quick break from secret agenting to check his Facebook.

Bond takes a quick break from secret agenting to check his Facebook.

Bond’s slim necktie, also from COS, is black woven silk. COS still offers ties on its site, for only £29, but I’m not sure if any are specifically the Skyfall tie.

Bond’s flat front trousers are a pair of “shark gray” – actual black and light gray weave – wool trousers made by Acne Studios for their “Wall Street” line. The trousers are very slim, as one would expect of Jany Temime’s Skyfall costuming, with a high rise and a tight fit particularly around the legs and waist. They fasten on the extended waistband with a double button and a hook-tab closure over a zip fly, with adjustable tabs on each side of the waist most of the Connery trousers.

The trousers have four pockets, but not in the traditional layout: two front pockets, a coin pocket under the right front waistband, and a button-through pocket on the right rear; there is no left rear pocket. The bottoms of the slim legs are plain-hemmed, breaking short over the shoes. The trousers are still available on Acne’s site for €220. James Bond Lifestyle also has more information about these trousers.

Bond wears a pair of black 2-eyelet Crockett & Jones “Tetbury” chukka boots, made from antique nubuck with the renowned Dainite rubber soles for additional traction during action scenes. Crockett & Jones still offer the boots for £355, and James Bond Lifestyle features more information and photos for your perusal.

RIP unnamed guard.

RIP unnamed guard.

If the Tetburys look familiar, it’s because Bond also wore them previously with his gray suit in Istanbul. He wore the Highbury model, a more traditional derby, for the London suit scene just prior to this which required less stunts and thus made a more traditional dress shoe more appropriate than the boots.

For an additional level of professionalism, Bond wears a pair of black unlined leather gloves from Dents, which go for around £65 on the Dents site. The product code for the gloves just happens to be #5-1007, according to James Bond Lifestyle. Bond Lifestyle also organized a “Super Contest” last December, offering a main prize of a framed pair of Dents gloves and photo signed by Daniel Craig. Online shoppers who missed the contest can still check out Amazon for a pair… although I doubt Dan Craig is sending any autographed pictures from there.

The filmmakers obviously knew how badass Bond looked in his black leather gloves, evident in the prominently featured Dents gloves in the first photo officially released by the production.

The filmmakers obviously knew how badass Bond looked in his black leather gloves, made evident by the prominently featured Dents gloves in the first photo officially released by the production.

Naturally, Bond also wears his trusty Omega in Shanghai. It is the same Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Mid Size Chronometer he wore in London, with reference number 231.10.39.21.03.001. It has a stainless steel case and bracelet and a blue dial with a date indicator at 3:00. This is the watch he wears for the majority of the film, up through the finale.

Omega. Good for sneaking around places where you shouldn't be.

Omega. Good for sneaking around places where you shouldn’t be.

Bond completes his Shanghai ensemble by converting it into a chauffeur’s uniform to disguise himself at the airport. He adds a traditional black chauffeur’s peaked cap, but the coolest part of the disguise is a pair of Tom Ford Marko TF144 “18V” aviator-style sunglasses with silver rhodium frames and blue lenses. If you have an extra $200 laying around, you can pick up a pair on Amazon. Despite the new Tom Ford-James Bond association, the sunglasses are the only visible Tom Ford item he is wearing (since I can’t attest to the maker of his underwear or socks).

Bond tries to make it a little less obvious that he can't blend in in Shanghai.

Bond tries to make it a little less obvious that he can’t blend in in Shanghai.

Bond evidently carries his sunglasses to the Macau casino, since he has them on hand when meeting Silva the next day. But we’ll get to that later.

Go Big or Go Home

Bond says about six words in this whole sequence, all of them demanding information from a man who is about to fall about 2,000 stories to his death. Avoiding the urge to be blabby, Bond’s quiet efficiency from the airport to the office building is evocative of some of the silent killers from early films like From Russia With LoveGoldfinger, and Thunderball, where the quietest men was Bond’s deadliest enemies.

A major takeaway here is that it’s possible to do something without providing a running commentary. Two Steve Buscemi characters failed this test of laconicism and ended up either going through a woodchipper or suffering from a heart attack after a confrontation with German nihilists.

That being said, these scenes coincidentally also showcase Bond’s product placement-guided choice of cellular communication in Skyfall, a Sony Xperia T.

Those magnificent bastards in product placement have done it again!

Those magnificent bastards in product placement have done it again!

Upon its reveal in 2012, the Xperia T was even described by Sony as “the James Bond phone”. This sort of cellular marketing is nothing new to the Bond series, dating back to the Ericsson “JB007″ offered around the release of Tomorrow Never Dies in 1997.

With the introduction of the Xperia T, Sony also developed the special Xperia T “Skyfall Edition” for the UK market with some preloaded Skyfall-related stuff for users like a ringtone and 007 images. There’s nothing overly Bondian about the new phone; it doesn’t have a laser or anything like that.

Remember this: Even if you carry a top-of-the-line phone and have a sweet job with unlimited expenses, know when it’s time to “shut the fuck up, Donny.”

How to Get the Look

Thanks to the Internet – James Bond Lifestyle to be specific in my case – we can identify nearly every part of Bond’s outfit here if you want to recreate it on your own. However, Bond’s budget is a bit more inflated than most people’s, so if you pay attention to the details rather than the brands, you have a nice shot of Bonding yourself on a budget.

I couldn't help but to include this. Brady Major at DeviantArt.com created this pretty accurate caricature as Daniel Craig, even nailing the details of the pea coat and trousers.

I couldn’t help but to include this. Brady Major at DeviantArt.com created this pretty accurate caricature as Daniel Craig, even nailing the details of the pea coat and trousers.

  • Navy blue double-breasted wool pea coat with a 6×3-button front, peak lapels, “hand warmer” chest pockets, straight flapped hip pockets, and rear single vent
    • Bond wears a Billy Reid “Bond” peacoat, set apart by its brown horn buttons and dark brown leather accents under the collars and pocket flaps. $695.
  • Black v-neck merino wool sweater
    • Bond wears a John Smedley “Bobby” sweater. $230.
  • White slim-fitting long-sleeve dress shirt with narrow spread collars, single-button cuffs, and a plain front
    • Bond wears a COS shirt. $75.
  • Black slim silk necktie
    • Bond also wears a COS tie. $49.
  • Gray wool flat front trousers with adjustable side tabs, extended waistband, plain-hemmed bottoms, and a slim fit
    • Bond wears Acne Studios’ “Wall Street” trousers in shark gray. $280.
  • Black leather 2-eyelet chukka boots
    • Bond wears Crockett & Jones “Tetbury” boots in black wax calf. $600.
  • Black dress socks
    • Uh…
  • Silver rhodium-framed aviator sunglasses with blue lenses
    • Bond wears Tom Ford Marko TF144 “18V” sunglasses. $200.

If you were doing the math, you can accurately replicate Bond’s look for just over $2,100… given that they have your size in stock. Since Bond’s clothing immediately becomes the most in-demand menswear for years, you may face a few hurdles there.

I have personally tried a similar look wearing a military surplus Schott 40-N naval pea coat, a black Italian merino wool v-neck sweater from Express, a white Express 1MX shirt, a slim black silk tie from H&M, dark gray herringbone trousers that are part of a John Alexander suit from the ’80s, and black leather Timberland “Mt. Washington” Chelsea boots (the same style worn in brown suede by Hank Moody). It’s a relatively budget-friendly combination (except for the surplus pea coat, which was a hand-me-down), especially when compared to the high prices of Bond’s attire.

While I haven’t leapt on elevators or fought hand-to-hand next to an open skyscraper window, I can attest that is a comfortable outfit that adds a level of class to a casual look, further enhanced with a blued .380 in the coat pocket.

The Gun

Remember when Bond got that custom-designed “Walther PPK/S nine-millimeter short, it’s been coded to your palm print so only you can fire it” from Q? Well, you should because I wrote about it in my last Skyfall post.

Bond takes the Walther along to Shanghai, keeping it tucked into one of the chest pockets of his pea coat when he’s not using it.

Anyone ever play laser tag?

Anyone ever play laser tag? Remember how when your laser gun was fully charged it would light up and you’d hear that ZAP in your headset? *crickets* No one?

The “Chekhov’s PPK” rule doesn’t come into play here, as Bond is the only one using his gun so the palm print reading gadget is just a novelty rather than a plot point. It will, however, save his life in the next scene at the Macau casino.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie. You can also easily buy the components that created this outfit online, but have a little fun seeing if you can go through your own wardrobe and put something similar together. And don’t worry if your PPK doesn’t have a palm print reader; most of them don’t.

Footnotes

Tons of help, as usual, came from James Bond Lifestyle, a definitive resource for identifying and obtaining the same brands worn by Bond.


Casino Royale: Bond’s Blue Sunspel Polo in Bahamas

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Daniel Craig as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006).

Daniel Craig as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006).

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, recently reactivated British secret agent

Bahamas, July 2006

Film: Casino Royale
Release Date: November 14, 2006
Director: Martin Campbell
Costume Designer: Lindy Hemming

Background

After a brief lesson in How Not To Vacation 101 (getting a beautiful bedmate killed, stabbing an international arms dealer in the middle of a museum, being mistakenly arrested as a potential plane bomber, and checking his work e-mail), James Bond is taken back to the Bahamas via helicopter to meet with “M” and discuss his future.

What’d He Wear?

Following his adventure in Miami, Bond returns to the Bahamas via helicopter, dressed far more casually than he was for his initial arrival. Although casual, it is still a classically simple look and provides Bond with his first on-screen polo shirt since the Connery era. The outfit is very fitting for the warm climate and can be easily adapted for any man.

The navy blue fitted polo shirt was originally tailored by Sunspel for Daniel Craig in the film, and it is still offered as Sunspel’s “Riviera” shirt. The name comes from the initial design, which was based on an elegant 1950s Sunspel shirt made for the Italian Riviera. The shirt was designed in England but manufactured in Turkey.

Is there any existing fanfic that has Bond and M hooking up while in the Bahamas?

Is there any existing fanfic that has Bond and M hooking up while in the Bahamas?

According to the Sunspel site:

Originally tailored for Daniel Craig for his role as James Bond in Casino Royale, the Riviera Polo has continued to be one our most popular styles. Crafted from a breathable cotton mesh, the Riviera has a clean, contemporary aesthetic with minimal detailing. An undoubted modern classic.

The fitted shirt is 100% combed cotton, which is both very soft and very strong, warp-knitted on traditional lace machines. The mesh-like texture keeps the shirt lightweight and breathable in the intense summer heat of the Bahamas. It has short sleeves, a wise choice for the Caribbean. There is a single patch pocket on the left breast.

Just a fair warning - there is about a 99% chance that this shirt won't make you look like Daniel Craig. If you have the same workout regimen as Orson Welles, there's really no help that a nice polo can provide.

Just a fair warning – there is about a 99% chance that this shirt won’t make you look like Daniel Craig. If you have the same workout regimen as Orson Welles, there’s really no help that a nice polo can provide.

The polo can be purchased from the Sunspel site for $128 (or £80) in a multitude of colors, including navy, gray melange, stone gray, charcoal, black, ivory, moss green, russet red, cobalt, and sky blue (which James Bond Lifestyle compares to the shirt worn by Connery in Dr. No). For more information about this polo and the other Sunspel shirts provided for Casino Royale, visit James Bond Lifestyle.

Unlike some other manufacturers of Bond’s on-screen clothing, Sunspel is wise to continue manufacturing this shirt as it remains popular even eight years later. It is a timeless and nearly perfect polo shirt, just as appropriate in 2014 as it would have been in 1954. While Craig is able to look good with the shirt untucked, wearers should also keep in mind that certain polo shirts look even better when tucked into the trousers for a streamlined look without the potential for belt line bunch-ups.

cr8-CL-shrt3

(In case you’re curious, the last time Bond had worn a polo on screen, it was the navy blue Fred Perry polo with his white swimming trunks in Thunderball. Evidently, Bond prefers blue polos to any other color.)

Bond wears a pair of khaki casual trousers woven in a cotton blend with moderate stretch. They are similar to the Levi’s STA-PREST jeans he would later wear in Quantum of Solace with their angled slash pockets, right side coin pocket, and patch rear pockets – all with studs – but they are more lightweight and constructed of a finer material. Some commenters believe that these may also be a pair of Ted Baker trousers, as Ted Baker sourced several other items for Casino Royale. The slightly flared bottoms are plain-hemmed.

Bond meets with the film's rudimentary version of "Q".

Bond meets with the film’s rudimentary version of “Q”.

Bond’s belt is dark brown leather, likely with a squared clasp. He clips his suede cognac Vega IB339 holster, a right-hand-draw IWB holster for his Walther P99, to the right rear of his belt, which tucks the pistol securely in place inside his trousers. The IWB (for inside-the-waistband) holster is a slick and reasonable option for a man who chooses to carry a sidearm with or without a jacket. Casino Royale marks the first appearance of Bond using an IWB holster, replacing his trademark shoulder holster which would make its return in Skyfall.

The actual Vega holster and rubber stunt P99 used in the film. Unlike some earlier Bond films, where he only had his pistol when he needed it in a Chekhov's gun-type scenario, Casino Royale realistically shows Bond carrying even in a non-combat situation.

The actual Vega holster and rubber stunt P99 used in the film. Unlike some earlier Bond films, where he only had his pistol when he needed it in a Chekhov’s gun-type scenario (i.e. certain scenes in From Russia With Love), Casino Royale realistically shows Bond carrying even in a non-combat situation.

Although not a perfect match to the belt, Bond still wears brown-toned shoes: a comfortable-looking pair of suede 2-eyelet chukka boots. In the brief glimpse we get as he steps off the helicopter, it appears that Bond wears brown socks that are slightly darker than the shade of his boots.

Though they didn't get as much screen time as the rest of the outfit, Bond's chukka boots can nicely be spotted in an alternate shot taken behind-the-scenes during the helicopter sequence.

Though they didn’t get as much screen time as the rest of the outfit, Bond’s chukka boots can nicely be spotted in an alternate shot taken behind-the-scenes during the helicopter sequence.

Bond wears his first of two pairs of Persol sunglasses while in the Bahamas. This is his “Bahamas” pair, the gunmetal gray satin metal-framed Persol 2244-S with brown lenses and acetate arms, “characterized by a dynamic double bridge and by the exclusive Meflecto system with two cylinders,” according to  James Bond Lifestyle. His specific color option is 834/33.

When not wearing them, Bond hangs his Persols from the front of his shirt. Although some may argue that using the shirt's breast pocket may be more practical, it is very unflattering (which totally defeats the purpose of wearing designer sunglasses in the first place).

When not wearing them, Bond hangs his Persols from the front of his shirt. Although some may argue that using the shirt’s breast pocket may be more practical, it is very unflattering (which totally defeats the purpose of wearing designer sunglasses in the first place).

Last but certainly not least (especially in terms of expense), Bond also wears his first of two Omega watches, his sporty Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 with a stainless steel case and black dial under domed anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The large black rubber strap is reasonable for diving, and the watch – water resistant down to 2,000 feet – makes sense given Bond’s location in the Bahamas.

These are really the only two gadgets Bond has in the film, other than Chekhov's in-car defibrillator.

These are really the only two gadgets Bond has in the film, other than Chekhov’s in-car defibrillator.

When he travels to the more inland destination of Montenegro, he wears the more formal Seamaster Professional Diver.

How to Get the Look

Bond sports a timeless casual look for warm weather. Like many of the casual looks featured on here for hotter climates, it pairs a simple shirt with a pair of light trousers to feel comfortable but still look impressive against the abundance of tourists decked out in fanny packs, cargo shorts, and tube socks.cr8-crop1

  • Navy blue knitted combed cotton mesh short-sleeve polo shirt with a 2-button placket and breast pocket
  • Khaki cotton blend jean-like trousers with angled slash pockets, coin pocket, patch rear pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark brown leather belt
  • Brown suede 2-eyelet chukka boots
  • Dark brown socks
  • Vega IB339 suede cognac IWB holster for Walther P99 pistol
  • Persol 2244-S gunmetal gray satin metal framed sunglasses with brown lenses (option 834/33)
  • Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 on a large black rubber strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the film.

The Quote

M: I would ask you if you could remain emotionally detached, but that’s not your problem, is it, Bond?
Bond: No.


The Cream Suit in Layer Cake

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SPOILER ALERT! Some photos in this post sorta give things away out of necessity. If you’re familiar with the film, great. If you’re not… eh, maybe wait a bit before reading this one.

Daniel Craig in Layer Cake (2004).

Daniel Craig in Layer Cake (2004).

Vitals

Daniel Craig as an unnamed London drug dealer (“XXXX”, for simplicity’s sake)

London, Summer 2004

Background

As summer comes to a close, so will the seasonal focus on how to wear a good summer suit. There have been a range of styles, from fashion-forward mod suits (Michael Caine in The Italian Job) to double-breasted three-piece affairs (J.J. Gittes and Chalky White).

At the end of Layer Cake, Dan Craig has effectively negotiated the dangerous London drug underworld to announce his retirement, even with the prospect of taking over staring him in the face. Unlike so many gangsters – both real and cinematic – “XXXX” decides he’s made enough and had enough, and he chooses to retire and drive off into the sunset (or the afternoon sun) with his new girlfriend. Unfortunately, he may have made one careless mistake too many…

What’d He Wear?

A few years earlier, fellow Bond-actor-in-non-Bond-role Pierce Brosnan wore a similar ensemble as crooked MI6 agent Andy Osnard in The Tailor of Panama (which I wrote about exactly one month ago). Brosnan’s suit was more tan than cream, but – like Craig – it was a linen and cotton blend worn with a light blue open-neck shirt and brown shoes. While Brosnan’s look was intentionally sloppy, Craig shows how well it can be pulled off for a casual summer outfit.

When given the chance to walk through double doors, use both doors. Be that guy.

When given the chance to walk through double doors, use both doors. Be that guy.

Of course, it helps that Craig’s suit was tailored by Richard James of Savile Row. According to Richard James’ blog:

The brief for Craig’s wardrobe… was ‘slim, contemporary Savile Row suits and definitive, well cut casual wear.” A suitable look, it was thought, for a character who professes, “I’m not a gangster, I’m a businessman whose commodity happens to be cocaine.”

Craig’s jacket is single-breasted with a long fit and a slightly pulled in waist. The slim notch lapels, which have swelled edges, roll down to the high 2-button front stance. The shoulders are lightly padded, and the cuffs are 4-button.

XXXX enjoys the life of a retired drug dealer.

XXXX enjoys the life of a retired drug dealer.

There is a welted pocket and the flapped hip pockets slant back like the traditional hacking jacket. The long fit and long single vent also indicate hacking jacket-inspired construction.

Craig’s matching suit trousers are flat front with a low rise best seen when he is leaning on a pillar outside the Stoke Park Country Club. The waistband has an extended hook-closure tab in the front and buckle adjusters on the sides. The side pockets are slanted, and there is a single jetted rear pocket on the left. The plain-hemmed bottoms fall with a long break over his boots.

Casual Dan.

Casual Dan.

Craig also wears the same boots as he wore throughout the rest of the film, a pair of dark brown (or “chestnut”) leather Chelsea boots with brown elastic side gussets and tall-heeled black soles. As many costume detectives have found out, these are R.M. Williams’ “Henley” boots.

This is what I meant about photos with spoilers :-/ If you've never seen Layer Cake before, then I apologize for revealing that XXXX is so embarrassed about spilling ketchup on himself during lunch that he faints outside.

This is what I meant about photos with spoilers :-/
If you’ve never seen Layer Cake before, then I apologize for revealing that XXXX is so embarrassed about spilling ketchup on himself during lunch that he faints outside. It’s shocking.

Chelsea boots are a nontraditional option for summer suits, especially in such a dark color, with tan oxfords or loafers typically worn. However, brown definitely works better than black would, and a utilitarian like XXXX – classy though he maybe – would wear a shoe that is practical and comfortable.

His socks remain unseen due to the trouser break and the height of the boots, but they would likely be tan or taupe.

Craig wears a light blue poplin shirt with a large 2-button spread collar. It has white buttons down the front placket and French cuffs secured by walnut oval-shaped links with silver trim.

The 2-button collar enjoyed plenty of popularity in the mid-2000s when large collars were back in style. Now, it's hard enough to fit a single button on the pencil-thin collars on some currently trendy shirts.

The 2-button collar enjoyed plenty of popularity in the mid-2000s when large collars were back in style. Now, it’s hard enough to fit a single button on the pencil-thin collars on some currently trendy shirts.

The only accessory Craig openly wears during the scene is his stainless wristwatch, possibly a Rolex Datejust, with a stainless bracelet and black dial.

A classy watch and cufflinks help make a casual suit pop.

A classy watch and cufflinks help make a casual suit pop.

Go Big or Go Home

Continuing the idea that Layer Cake directly led to Daniel Craig’s consideration – and eventual hiring – as James Bond, it must be pointed out that the location chosen for the finale is the Stoke Park Country Club in Stoke Poges, Buckinghamshire. (That’s in England, in case you’re geographically disabled.)

Daniel Craig and Sienna Miller outside the Stoke Park Country Club.

Daniel Craig and Sienna Miller outside the Stoke Park Country Club.

“Stoke Park… that sounds familiar,” you say to yourself. Since you’re reading this blog, you’re probably familiar with the film Goldfinger. Stoke Park Country Club hosted James Bond and Auric Goldfinger’s gripping golf game that climaxed with Oddjob removing a statue’s head with a single toss of his bowler hat.

How to Get the Look

Some men eschew going tieless with a suit, but XXXX proves that it’s not always such a bad thing.

Unfortunately, the classic R107 Benz doesn't make it into the finished film. No reason why you shouldn't still get one, though!

Unfortunately, the classic ’86 300SL doesn’t make it into the finished film. No reason why you shouldn’t still get one, though!

  • Cream linen-cotton blend two-piece suit from Richard James of Savile Row, consisting of:
    • Single-breasted jacket with notch lapels, 2-button front, welted breast pocket, slanted flapped hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and single rear vent
    • Flat front trousers with extended waistband tab, buckle side adjusters, and plain-hemmed bottoms with full break
  • Light blue button-down shirt with large 2-button spread collar, front placket, and double/French cuffs
  • Walnut oval cufflinks with silver trim
  • Dark brown (“chestnut”) leather R.M. Williams “Henley” Chelsea boots with brown elastic side gussets
  • Rolex Datejust wristwatch with stainless case/bracelet and black dial

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the film.

The Quote

My name? If you knew that, you’d be as clever as me.


Skyfall – Bond’s Dark Blue Tuxedo in Macau

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Excerpt from a promotional poster for Skyfall (2012), featuring Daniel Craig as James Bond against the familiar "gunbarrel" backdrop.

Excerpt from a promotional poster for Skyfall (2012), featuring Daniel Craig as James Bond against the familiar “gunbarrel” backdrop.

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, British government agent

Macau, Spring 2012

Background

Nearly forty years after his last visit, James Bond returns to Macau in The Man with the Golden Gun after discovering a casino chip on an assassin in Shanghai. Now officially back in Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Bond packs up his dinner suit, cut-throat razor, and sunglasses and heads to the film’s version of Macau.

Skyfall‘s Macau is far different and more primitive than its real life counterpart, which is more like an Asian Las Vegas with a twist of Portugal rather than the simple but mysterious Ming Dynasty village seen in the film. A Special Administration Region like Hong Kong, Macau was a Portugese colony until 1999. During its 500 years of Portuguese rule, Macau developed a fascinating fusion of Portuguese and Southeast Asian culture that is still perceptible in all aspects from language to architecture.

When I first saw Skyfall, I was intrigued by this rustic place with the strongly masculine hotel and floating casino. While the floating casino exists, and is one of many casinos in the city, the film’s portrayal misses the city’s neon accents.

Still, the entire Macau sequence is filled with stunning visuals from the locations (fictional though they may be) to the film’s two Bond girls, played by Naomie Harris and Bérénice Marlohe, and – of course – Bond’s dark blue tux. I’m not sure what your plans are this week, but I can guarantee they would be enhanced by rolling out your own sharp blue dinner suit.

What’d He Wear?

Bond’s Macau dinner suit, the only one he wears in Skyfall, was used very prominently during the film’s promotion, and rightly so as it is a very good-looking suit and was worn during some of the film’s key scenes.

Promotion for Skyfall utilized the dark blue dinner suit to emphasize both the series' return to a focus on style balanced with action after both the Casino Royale reboot and the Bourne-like ruggedness of Quantum of Solace.

Promotion for Skyfall utilized the dark blue dinner suit to emphasize both the series’ return to a focus on style balanced with action after both the Casino Royale reboot and the Bourne-like ruggedness of Quantum of Solace.

It also is notable for being one of the few times that a blue suit was worn to actually photograph blue. Often, Bond – and other characters – sport midnight blue tuxedoes that are meant to appear “darker than black”, hence the misconception that Bond wears strictly black tuxedoes. In fact, most of Bond’s dinner suits have been midnight blue. For a terrific infographic that broadly analyzes Bond’s clothing, check this out.

The more visible blue dinner suit has been catching on since Skyfall with stars like Ryan Gosling, Kevin Spacey, and Bradley Cooper famously wearing them to award shows. Cooper’s appears to be the same Tom Ford tux worn by Craig, or at least very similarly styled.

Bond stands around as Silva prepares some shots of Scotch.

Bond stands around as Silva prepares some shots of Scotch.

So let’s look at the actual tux that Bond wears in Skyfall. Certainly by Tom Ford and possibly part of his “O’Connor” collection, the cloth is a vivid dark blue that shines more navy than midnight when Bond steps out into the sunlight the next day wearing the same suit. As we rarely see Bond’s evening attire during the daytime (appropriately enough), it makes sense that this blue tux would stand out more than the others in the series. Matt Spaiser’s expert blog, The Suits of James Bond, also features a post about this suit.

On October 5, 2012, Christie’s of South Kensington auctioned one of the dinner suits worn in the film, describing it as:

A two-piece dinner suit in navy wool by Tom Ford, worn by Daniel Craig as James Bond in Skyfall.

The suit, sold as Lot #42 for £46,850 ($75,756 if you’re nasty), was part of a collection consisting mostly of other memorabilia from Daniel Craig’s outings as Bond including a Skyfall Omega watch, the “charcoal serge with light blue rope-stripe” suit he would wear later in London, the famous La Perla swimming trunks from Casino Royale, and a genuine Aston Martin DBS from Quantum of Solace.

The auction also validates many people’s complaints about the dinner suit; the auctioned tux was sized 38R (the label read 48F but us Ameicans or Brits know that better as 38R). Though he may be the shortest Bond actor at 5’10”, Daniel Craig is not a small person. After gaining plenty of muscle for the Bond role, Craig would easily fit into a 40 or 42-sized suit, but 38? No wonder he looked like he was about to burst out of it. This was likely one of his stunt tuxes, as he certainly wore bespoke versions for close-ups and sequences not requiring running, jumping, or shooting.

The dinner jacket, though the tight fit and short cut may distract some, still has undeniably classic features. The jacket is the same dark navy as the rest of the suit with wide shawl lapels with black satin silk facings.

Daniel Craig impregnates the audience.

Daniel Craig impregnates the audience.

Bond’s jacket is single-breasted and closes in the front with a single black satin-faced button. This poor button becomes considerably strained when Craig closes it over his torso, likely breathing a sigh of relief when he sits down and unbuttons it again.

The 3-button cuffs are also covered in the same black satin silk. As usual for Craig’s Bond, he shows off the surgeon’s cuffs by keeping the bottom button unfastened.

It's okay to be rakish with your surgeon's cuffs if you're badass enough to back it up.

It’s okay to be rakish with your surgeon’s cuffs if you’re badass enough to back it up.

Bond’s dinner jacket has narrow shoulders with roped sleeveheads. There is a welted pocket and two jetted hip pockets, both also featuring black satin silk jetting. He wears a white handkerchief neatly folded into the breast pocket, likely made of either linen or silk.

Little did Bond know that the beautiful woman he was flirting with over drinks would soon be in his sights during a Scotch-fueled dueling match the next day - ah, you know what, he probably knew.

Little did Bond know that the beautiful woman he was flirting with over drinks would soon be in his sights during a Scotch-fueled dueling match the next day – ah, you know what, he probably knew.

The only exception to the jacket’s classic look is the single rear vent, which belongs only on business suits or sport coats; dinner jacket should either have double vents or none at all.

Poor Bond was followed around all night by sartorial critics pointing at his rear vent and sneering.

Poor Bond was followed around all night by sartorial critics pointing at his rear vent and sneering.

The likely reason for the single vent is that the tight fit of the jacket meant that:

  • a ventless jacket would be too tight, and Craig would be unable to move
  • double rear vents would create the effect of “ass-popping”, and Craig would look silly

There are two things that James Bond is not known for: immobility and looking silly. In her quest to place Bond in these very contemporary but very tight-fitting suits, costume designer Jany Temime is also mindful of these two tenets and sacrifices proper dinner jacket venting in order to meet them.

Bond’s formal flat front trousers are also midnight blue with black satin stripes down the leg. The trousers rise appropriately high on Bond’s waist, where they fasten with an extended front waist tab and buckle side adjusters.

Bond plays with his toys.

Bond plays with his toys.

The trousers fit neatly down the legs, tapering to the plain-hemmed bottoms. They also have on-seam side pockets where Craig often places his hands when idle.

Although the trousers have side adjusters, Bond wears a set of white moiré suspenders with white leather joints (constructed of vegtanned goatskin) and braid ends, made by Albert Thurston according to James Bond Lifestyle.

Traditionists eschew the wearing of evening attire both in the daytime and without the jacket and tie. However, these are extenuating circumstances if I've ever seen them.

Traditionists eschew the wearing of evening attire both in the daytime and without the jacket and tie. However, these are extenuating circumstances if I’ve ever seen them.

The suspenders (or braces) are fitted with clips to fasten to the top of the waistband, but since Bond’s trousers are fitted with inside buttons, the braces are able to fasten inside and out of sight for a cleaner look.

When in the casino, Bond covers up his waist with a black satin silk Tom Ford cummerbund, marking one of the few times in the series that he wears one.

sf6-CL-cummerbund

Bond looks like a very serious man on a mission. Because he actually is.

Now that he’s practically a Tom Ford brand ambassador, Bond also wears a white cotton voile Tom Ford shirt that kicks the outfit’s traditional look up a notch. The bib, spread collar, and double cuffs are all piqué, a standard weave for formalwear since the early days of white tie. The shirt has two side darts on the back.

Silva takes a few liberties with Bond.

Silva takes a few liberties with Bond.

Bond wears a set of white mother-of-pearl cuff links, also from Tom Ford, through his shirt cuffs. They are round with white gold trim and, as you might be able to guess, were made by Tom Ford. You might not be able to guess the price, though; according to James Bond Lifestyle, they can run you about $3,400. If you’re the sort of person that spends $3,400 on cuff links, I’m requesting that you stop reading this blog on principle alone.

The photo of Bond's Tom Ford cuff links have a James Bond Lifestyle watermark because you should visit that site for all of your James Bond lifestyle needs. They've got you covered.

The photo of Bond’s Tom Ford cuff links have a Bond Lifestyle watermark because you should visit that site for all of your James Bond lifestyle needs. They’ve got you covered.

Since Tom Ford’s hand is present throughout this outfit, the cuff links perfectly match the shirt studs, a smaller version of the white gold-trimmed mother-of-pearl links. The studs are worn through the shirt’s plain front, with four showing between the bow tie and cummerbund.

Bond’s bow tie is black grosgrain with a “batwing” shape, a narrower tie that works best with slimmer men wearing slimmer collars and lapels.

Bond sizes up his surroundings.

Bond sizes up his surroundings.

The English shoemaker Crockett & Jones is well-represented in Skyfall as Bond wears his third pair of C&Js in Macau. This is the “Alex” plain-toe wholecut shoe, constructed of black calf with five eyelets and a single leather sole. Again confirmed by James Bond Lifestyle in its infinite wisdom, the Crockett & Jones “Alex” can be had for £360… that’s just £180 per shoe!

The Crockett & Jones shoes were worth the investment for the poster art, but in the film they're only seen fleetingly after Bond's already been through a rough night.

The Crockett & Jones shoes were worth the investment for the poster art, but in the film they’re only seen fleetingly after Bond’s already been through a rough night. Not the best use of £360.

Naturally, Bond wears a pair of black socks. Would you really think Bond is the sort of guy who “wants a hint of color“?

Bond’s watch is his Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Mid Size Chronometer, worn in all scenes after his return from exile. The reference number is 231.10.39.21.03.001, and it is stainless with a stainless case and a brilliant blue dial with an indicator at 3:00 and a screw-in crown.

Bond, genuinely afraid that his watch will get scratched.

Bond, genuinely afraid that his watch will get scratched.

His holster remains unseen, but it looks like he is back to wearing an IWB as a shoulder holster would create a very unsightly bulge in the tight dinner jacket. Reportedly, his Skyfall IWB holster was a cognac-colored suede Vega IB333 to fit the Walther PPK/S he is issued by Q. He certainly wears it during the following scenes in London after Silva’s capture, but he is back to carrying a standard PPK by then.

Another tool of the job is worn in his ear. To communicate with Moneypenny in the Floating Dragon Casino, Bond fits a Phonak Invisity Flex Miniature Receiver into his ear. Before you start thinking I’m an earpiece expert (I’m not; I’m only an apprentice earpiece expert), this very acute detail also comes from James Bond Lifestyle, which reports that Bond dropping the earpiece into Eve’s champagne is “an expensive joke, since this earpiece costs £1100 – £1500 (with remote control) or $1290 – $1750.” No wonder he and Q were always at odds!

Interestingly, James Bond Lifestyle also reports that the earpiece was more than just a prop. When Silva (Javier Bardem) was locked inside the glass, he wore one of these earpieces to hear the lines of the actors outside the glass. The film concealed the earpiece nicely, as this is impossible to discern when watching.

The next day, Bond and Sévérine emerge from what was likely a few hours in the shower for a bright morning ride on her yacht. To combat the sunlight, Bond puts on a pair of Tom Ford Marko FT0144 “18V” aviator-style sunglasses with silver rhodium frames and blue lenses.

Bond was wisely prepared for a sunny morning on Silva's private island.

Bond was wisely prepared for a sunny morning on Silva’s private island.

I have no idea where he was keeping these, as they surely would’ve broken when he jumped into the Rancor pit komodo dragon pit the previous evening and certainly would’ve bulged through his clothing. Perhaps after leaving the casino he picked them up from his car, knowing that he and Sévérine wouldn’t be finished until morning.

Craig also wore the Tom Ford sunglasses while filming in Istanbul, but they weren’t part of that scene. More info is available at James Bond Lifestyle… but you knew that. Maybe you didn’t know that you can still get a pair of Markos yourself on Amazon.

All in all, this is a great dinner suit that could’ve been just a little bit better with a correct fit. Had it fit better, it would’ve likely had the proper rear venting and still would have flattered Craig’s muscular physique. It’s interesting to see the transition between the evening and day, as Bond ditches the bow tie and adds sunglasses, making it almost a completely different look. This is very reminiscent of Moonraker (and the only real thing the two films have in common*) where Bond wore his black tux to the Rio carnival then showed up the next morning still in the same clothing.

* Other than the fact that both films feature black tie scenes in Portuguese-speaking countries that are not Portugal. Eerie coincidence.

* An additional coincidence – or maybe it isn’t? – is the fact that Macau is a Portuguese-speaking country and Raoul Silva is supposed to be Portuguese-born. I don’t believe this was mentioned in the film; something extra for viewers in the know?

Go Big or Go Home

James Bond’s badassery seemingly knows no bounds; he begins his night by shaving with a straight razor. Moneypenny – and many others – refer to these as “cut-throat” razors and for an excellent reason that needs no explanation. Straight razors were once the only way to shave until the development of the safety razor around the start of the 20th century. An additional blow was delivered to the straight razor as the popularity of electric razors blew up in the 1950s.

Very few men still shave with straight razors, and even Bond himself used a Gillette-style safety razor in the novels and the Goldfinger film. By the time of Die Another Day, Pierce Brosnan’s Bond had even adopted an electric razor, the Philips Philishave Sensotec HQ8894 (marketed in North America as the Norelco Spectra 8894XL). Of course, a straight razor wouldn’t have been as practical for Bond to shave off the heavy beard he had accrued in that film, and the Philips product placement gods were sated by Britain’s #1 hero using their razor.

The theme of old vs. new runs rampant in Skyfall, and Bond’s choice of razor is not insignificant. The skill required to safely and efficiently use a straight razor means that most men desirous of these close shaves go to a barber who is learned in the ways of the razor. For Bond to be able to use one himself, he must be steady-handed and steady-minded to not be intimidated by the shave. (Moneypenny seems to appreciate it too.)

Nor is he intimidated by exotic casino games. If a man came up to you in a casino and asked you to pay some chips on a game of 骰寶, would you do it?

骰寶, pronounced Sic bo in English, is also known as tai sai (大細), dai siu (大小), big and small, or hi-lo. Three dice are shaken in a mechanical shaker, and the player must predict the outcome. Like roulette, it is almost completely a game of chance. It is very popular in Macau, and Bond satisfies himself with a few games before heading to the bar for some dangerously sexually-charged drinks with Sévérine.

Bond shakes and stirs Sévérine. (Ugh, I hate puns.)

Bond shakes and stirs Sévérine. (Ugh, I hate puns.)

And who exactly was Sévérine, anyway? While I get that all Bond adventures need at least two Bond girls – including one sacrificial lamb – her role was slightly unclear to me. So she had been an ex-prostitute that was now somehow in service to Silva, and this service included getting men to look at art while being shot?

A scene was unfortunately deleted from the film at the Shanghai airport that would have shown Sévérine handing a briefcase to Patrice, Silva’s silent henchman that Bond kills through hand-to-hand combat and eventual defenestration. The briefcase, as we see in the finished film, contained the Floating Dragon Casino chip that led Bond to Macau and, thus, Sévérine. Perhaps the filmmakers thought a more stylish introduction to her character would be seeing her through Bond’s eyes for the first time during the assassination, but this cut took some clarity with it.

What to Imbibe

While Bond indulges in one of his extra chilled vodka martinis during his tête-à-tête with Sévérine, Skyfall gives a nice boost to Macallan single malt Scotch whisky throughout. Casual viewers who only associate Bond with martinis were probably stunned to see him drinking so much whisky, not to mention the controversial Heineken! Of course, casual viewers haven’t read the books or paid attention to the films, which often find Bond drinking far more whisky; alas, the simplicity of whisky doesn’t stick in audience’s minds as much as a complicated martini order that shows just how much of a connoisseur/snob one can be.

Despite tacky taste in clothing, Raoul Silva has excellent taste in libations. He keeps a bottle of Macallan 1962 Fine and Rare Vintage on his private island, pouring out shots for he and Bond as the two compare marksmanship with the lovely Sévérine as an unwilling target stand. Of course, Bond’s been a bit shaky lately and Silva is forced to take the shot – the gunshot, that is – and put poor Sévérine down.

sf6-LS-scotch

Bond is coldly laconic, as usual:

Waste of good Scotch.

How to Get the Look

As several gents in Hollywood have proved, a sharp blue dinner suit is a classy way to show up on the red carpet. If you’ve got any red carpet events this weekend, or just any red rugs in your house that you feel particularly like walking on, now you know what to wear.

Daniel Craig on the Floating Dragon Casino set.

Daniel Craig on the Floating Dragon Casino set.

  • Midnight navy blue wool dinner suit by Tom Ford, consisting of:
    • Single-breasted jacket with wide black satin silk-faced shawl lapels, single black satin silk-covered button, welted breast pocket, black satin silk-jetted hip pockets, 3 covered silk button “surgeon’s cuffs”, and single rear vent
    • Flat front high rise trousers with extended waistband, buckle side adjusters, side pockets, and plain-hemmed tapered bottoms
  • White cotton voile Tom Ford shirt with piqué plain-front bib, piqué spread collar, and piqué double/French cuffs
  • Black “batwing”-style grosgrain bow tie
  • White mother-of-pearl Tom Ford cuff links with white gold round trim
  • Black calf wholecut plain-toe 5-eyelet shoes
    • Bond wears the Crockett & Jones “Alex” model
  • Black dress socks
  • White moiré Albert Thurston suspenders with white goatskin leather joints and braid ends
  • Black satin silk Tom Ford cummerbund
  • Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra  Mid Size Chronometer, ref. 231.10.39.21.03.001 with a stainless steel bracelet and case and a blue dial
  • Vega IB333 cognac-colored suede IWB holster for Walther PPK/S
  • Tom Ford FT0144 Marko “18V” aviator-style sunglasses with silver rhodium frames and blue lenses
  • White silk (or linen) folded pocket square, worn in jacket breast pocket

The Gun

Chekhov’s Gadget in Skyfall was actually a gun this time. Q had issued Bond his new pistol, a “Walther PPK/S, nine-millimeter short”, with a special palm print coding meaning only Bond could fire it. He tests out the coding briefly in Shanghai, acknowledging it with a smirk. Surely this isn’t the sole narrative purpose of the gun’s new feature!

Bond next continues to Macau, and the pistol even becomes a topic of discussion with Sévérine…

Sévérine: Would you mind if I ask you a business question?
Bond: Depends on the question.
Sévérine: It has to do with death.
Bond: A subject in which you’re well-versed.
Sévérine: And how would you know that?
Bond: Only a certain kind of wears a backless dress with a Beretta 70 strapped to her thigh.
Sévérine: One can never be too careful when handsome men in tuxedos carry Walthers.

Chekhov’s Gadget survives another scene unused, however, and Chekhov’s Gun is averted. Not only is Sévérine’s referenced Beretta Model 70 never used, it’s never even seen. (For those who are curious, the Beretta Model 70 is a compact .32-caliber semi-automatic that popped its head up as a continuity error in The Spy Who Loved Me when Bond was in Egypt. It has been used in plenty of foreign films but is well-remembered as the pistol used by Andy Garcia to kill two home invaders in The Godfather, Part III.)

Alas, Chekhov’s Gadget finally rears its head in the komodo dragon pit in the following scene. Bond drops into the pit and loses his PPK/S, which is subsequently picked up by one of Silva’s more portly henchmen.

Again keeping utter cool, Bond deadpans: “Good luck with that,” and the henchman pulls the trigger. Click. Click. Enough time to allow Bond to kick some ass and escape, but – unfortunately – without retrieving his pistol.

Bond gets his hands on another weapon the next morning when his marksmanship (and hubris) are tested on Silva’s island. For Silva’s aforementioned marksmanship exercise, he reveals a stunning Ardesa 1871 percussion cap dueling pistol, as identified by IMFDb.

An Ardesa

An Ardesa available from Henry Krank.

The above photo, found at HenryKrank.com, has a .45 inch bore – making it 11.4 mm caliber. It weighs approximately one kilogram with an overall length of 16.9″ (430 mm) and a 9.4″ barrel (240 mm). Both the polished barrel and the walnut stock are fluted.

sf6-gun-ardesa1

At nearly a foot and a half long, the Ardesa is a world apart from Bond’s usual 6″-long Walther PPK.

Proving to be a wasteful dickhead, Silva places a shot glass of Macallan on Sévérine’s head as she remains tied up. Bond is given the challenge: shoot the glass of whisky on top of her head. We’ve already seen Bond try to regain his marksmanship skills during his re-training. It wasn’t pretty.

sf6-gun-ardesa2

That guy with the Glock is getting a little too anxious…

After a tense few seconds, Bond misses. Luckily, he avoids hitting Sévérine. Silva takes the dueling pistol next and – BANG! – wins the match on a technicality by shooting Sévérine dead. She slumps forward, and the shot glass slips off. While Bond reacts coolly, it becomes obvious he was just biding his time, looking for the perfect chance. The moment strikes and he takes over, wiping out all of Silva’s henchmen and simultaneously swiping a more tactical Glock 17 from one of them.

sf6-gun-glock

Bond takes control.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Well, I like to do some things the old-fashioned way.

Footnotes

Today is my girlfriend’s birthday, and she was sweet enough to allow me to indulge in a very Bond-like date night two years ago when we went to see Skyfall. The evening was complete with Tagliatelli Verdi and Chianti (Bond’s favorite Italian dinner in the novels) and a fair amount of know-it-all moments for me as I rambled on about Bond trivia minutae. Naturally, I wore a dark blue worsted suit with a white shirt, black knit tie, black casual moccasins, and a holstered .32.

In an additional display of awesome, she was the one to buy me my own DVD copy of Skyfall after it came out!

Happy Birthday, Sarah!



Casino Royale: Bond Visits M in a Dark Topcoat

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Daniel Craig on the set of Casino Royale (2006) in a photograph by Greg Williams that appeared in the book Bond on Set: Filming Casino Royale.

Daniel Craig on the set of Casino Royale (2006) in a photograph by Greg Williams that appeared in the book Bond on Set: Filming Casino Royale.

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, British secret agent

London, July 2006

Film: Casino Royale
Release Date: November 14, 2006
Director: Martin Campbell
Costume Designer: Lindy Hemming

Background

Arrogance and self-awareness seldom go hand in hand.

After getting caught on camera shooting up an embassy and then breaking into his boss’s apartment, Bond receives just the advice that he needs to hear at the start of his budding career as a secret agent. Dressing in dark colors and wearing a smirk straight from the Bruce Willis School of Badassery, Bond doesn’t impress the stern but wise M as she lays down the law.

What’d He Wear?

Bond’s outfit for this scene, particularly the casual topcoat, was nicely analyzed in a detailed post by 007 expert Matt Spaiser on The Suits of James Bond. It is a very slick and cool look that reflects the agent’s devil-may-care state of mind at the time; so what if he just “violated the only absolutely inviolate rule of international relations”? He’s a spy, dammit, and he’s going to dress like one!

Spaiser describes Bond’s Brioni topcoat as “a light blue barleycorn pattern on a black ground”, giving this simple look an elegant element of color that keeps it from being monochromatic.

Bond does some late night recon.

Bond does some late night recon.

Otherwise, the coat is very similar to the black topcoat worn by a contemporary action spy – Jason Bourne. Like Bourne’s overcoat, it is single-breasted and knee-length with notch lapels and a 3-button front. Also like Bourne’s coat (particularly in The Bourne Supremacy), it has straight flapped pockets rather than slash pockets and 3-button cuffs.

Bond tries to work his wily charm on M.

Bond tries to work his wily charm on M.

The topcoat also has a welted breast pocket and roped sleeveheads. There is a single vent in the rear.

The most similar item that Brioni is currently offering, as of November 2014, is an all-black cashmere and silk velour topcoat that, while undeniably luxurious, carries the extra-luxurious price tag of $7,575.

Bond’s black long-sleeve polo shirt is a callback to his preference for similar shirts while sneaking around at night in classic 007 adventures like Goldfinger and Thunderball. The shirt is constructed from a soft material that appears to be cashmere. It has three black buttons, much like the black knit polo worn by Connery in Goldfinger.

The dark buttons on Bond's polo keep his look darker and more mysteriously sinister.

The dark buttons on Bond’s polo keep his look darker and more mysteriously sinister.

Bond wears a pair of black and white Glen Urquhart check flat front trousers with a light blue plaid overcheck, which Spaiser notes “picks up the blue in the topcoat”, bringing the outfit full circle. The trousers have on-seam side pockets and cuffed bottoms (or “turn-ups”) with a short break. Given that Ted Baker provided other trousers for the film, it’s possible that these too were made by Ted Baker.

Bond would later wear these same trousers while consulting with Mathis on the balcony of his Montenegro hotel room. Daniel Craig later posed for a series of promotional photos with Eva Green while wearing the same trousers.

Craig wore the same trousers during this photo shoot with Eva Green.

Craig wore the same trousers during this photo shoot with Eva Green.

Casino Royale reveals Bond’s preference for chukka boots, and he wears a pair of black calf John Lobb “Romsey” boots in this scene. They are plain-toe with two eyelets. His socks are also black. Typically, one tries to match socks to the trousers rather than the shoes, but that can be difficult with multi-colored Glen check trousers.

CR4-CL-shoes

Though the original Romsey style as worn in Casino Royale is now out of production, John Lobb now manufactures the “Romsey II”, a similar looking ankle boot in kendal calf available in black, moss green, and dark brown. A pair can be yours for only $1,495. Only.

Bond's Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean.

Bond’s Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean.

His watch is famously an Omega, notably the sporty Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 with a stainless steel case and large black rubber diver’s strap. It has a black dial under domed, anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and is water resistant down to 2,000 feet. He will later wear the more formal Omega Seamaster Professional Diver, but the Planet Ocean is fine for casual outfits like this.

As this scene takes place in the middle of summer (around July 8, I believe), it may be hard to imagine someone wearing a topcoat. However, this is London where July temperatures are typically around 65°F. Plus, Bond layers it casually with just a shirt and trousers rather than a suit or sweater. Thus, it’s very reasonable attire for a late night London summer.

I sported a brown-toned version of a similarly inspired outfit like this for Thanksgiving last year, consisting of a dark brown herringbone vintage topcoat, brown cotton/lycra Banana Republic long-sleeve polo, and dark brown and tan Glen check trousers.

Six years later in Skyfall, Bond and M find themselves in a similar situation, only now Bond has listened to M’s directive. Totally self-aware, he is no longer “dressing like a spy” and instead stands before her in a shabby-looking leather jacket, looking every bit the weary and cynical recluse rather than the once-swaggering hotshot spy that broke into her flat. Obviously, he didn’t heed her advice to “don’t ever break into my house again!”

Ah, what six years can do to a secret agent...

Ah, what six years can do to a secret agent…

Go Big or Go Home (or Go to M’s Home)

Rather than waiting to get admonished at the office, Bond goes straight to M’s place to face the music with a frank discussion about his future… and also some recon using her secure network. Upon her return, he’s quick to show that he believes he has the upper hand by revealing the knowledge of her name (Olivia Mansfield, according to some movie tie-in novels)…

Bond: I always thought M was a randomly assigned initial. I had no idea it stood for-
M: Utter one more syllable, and I’ll have you killed.

This scene sets a fine foundation for the Bond-M relationship that Daniel Craig and Judi Dench portray so beautifully. They bring out the best in each other’s acting chops, and the relationship is at its most dynamic during their three-film tenure.

As of Skyfall, we still haven’t received glimpses of Bond’s living situation beyond a few scenes in Dr. No and Live and Let Die that would surely be outdated by the 21st century. However, we get quite a nice look at M’s apartment with James Bond Lifestyle coming to the rescue with a few decorating tips to live like MI6’s savvy chief.

M's rad London flat. Bond is sitting on one of the Knoll Barcelona chairs while his previously-occupied Herman office chair sits off to his left. The book is on the table in front of him.

M’s rad London flat. Bond is sitting on one of the Knoll Barcelona chairs while his previously-occupied Herman Miller Aeron office chair sits off to his left. The Burne-Jones book is on the table in front of him.

During their discussion, Bond and M sit on two of her three Knoll Barcelona chrome-framed designer chairs in “Spinneybeck leather”. The chairs have an appropriately retro look, dating back to a 1929 design by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe that was bought by Knoll in the 1960s. According to Bond Lifestyle, a genuine Knoll Barcelona chair can go for at least $5,000 but Amazon has some examples at around a tenth of the price. (Source: James Bond Lifestyle)

Before M shows up, Bond makes himself at home in her Herman Miller Aeron office chair, an iconic and highly adjustable chair that has even been featured in MoMa. Bond Lifestyle tells us that M’s chair is a premium model with a graphite-framed polished aluminum base, gray black “tuxedo” weave seat and back, and a “V”-shaped PostureFit lumbar support kit. Evidently, prices range between $700 and $1,170 which is a steal compared to the Knoll Barcelona but a bit ridiculous considering you could buy a used ’98 Toyota for the same price. Certainly there must be cheaper ways of sitting in front of the computer. (Source: James Bond Lifestyle)

And speaking of computers… M falls victim to Sony’s ubiquity in the Bond franchise with her Sony VAIO TX-series laptop, kept at home with a green MI6 background and evidently poor password protection. Bond uses his Zio FoneMate SIM Card Manager CM-43000 to access Mollaka’s phone on her computer. (Source: James Bond Lifestyle)

For the more dignified bon vivant who eschews modern technology – or at least likes a good book – the eagle-eyed spotters at Bond Lifestyle noticed a hardcover copy of Burne-Jones: The Life and Works of Sir Edward Burne-Jones (1833-1898) by Christopher Wood on M’s table. For anyone who doesn’t know (including me, before this post), Sir Edward Burne-Jones was a talented British artist and designer who helped rejuvenate the art of stained glass in England in addition to his multiple painting and crafting efforts. The cover of the book itself is a detail of his painting “Garden of Hesperides”. (Sources: James Bond Lifestyle and Wikipedia, as if I would’ve known any of that myself)

Of course, if you’re going in for coffee table books, a meta example – and one that I would actually read – would be Bond on Set: Filming Casino Royale, featuring a collection of rare and impressive on-set photography by Greg Williams. This book, available from Amazon, would also make a great Christmas gift, although one could say that of any book in the Bond on Set collection.

How to Get the Look

Bond settles comfortably into the image of the slick and stylish 21st century super spy when he breaks into M’s apartment. It’s a shame that this particular outfit didn’t receive more exposure in the movie.

CR4-crop

  • Black (with light blue barleycorn pattern) knee-length single-breasted Brioni topcoat with notch lapels, 3-button front, welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and single rear vent
  • Black cashmere long-sleeve polo with 3-button placket
  • Black and white Glen Urquhart check (with light blue plaid overcheck) flat front trousers with on-seam side pockets and turn-ups/cuffs, possibly from Ted Baker
  • Black calf leather 2-eyelet John Lobb “Romsey” chukka boots
  • Black dress socks
  • Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 on a large black rubber strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the film.

The Quote

So you want me to be half-monk, half-hitman.


Casino Royale: Bond’s Leather Jacket in Miami

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Daniel Craig as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006).

Daniel Craig as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006).

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, British government secret agent

Miami, July 9, 2006

Film: Casino Royale
Release Date: November 14, 2006
Director: Martin Campbell
Costume Designer: Lindy Hemming

Background

This bitter winter weather has many level-headed folks here in the Northeast U.S. hopping a flight down to Florida where the weather is sunny and warm, the women are tan and beautiful, and the serial killers only kill other serial killersCasino Royale gives James Bond his first return to Miami since Goldfinger, and luckily he leaves the blue terrycloth playsuit behind this time.

It’s been a few months since this blog has checked in with Mr. Bond, and I hope that his post will portend a much warmer 00-7th of March for those of us dealing with this frigid cold!

What’d He Wear?

Bond’s leather jacket, t-shirt, and trousers in Miami has become one of the most popular outfits from the recent era. Matt Spaiser nicely covered it with a well-researched post on The Suits of James Bond, which includes a snippet of an interview with costumer Lindy Hemming.

I’ll shatter any illusions right now – Bond wears a Giorgio Armani leather jacket that originally cost around $4,000… and that’s not including the customization that the production received so that the close fit flattered Daniel Craig’s physique. However, it’s still an excellent jacket and worth keeping in mind while shopping for your next leather. (Also, Armani lowered the price for the Casino Royale production to about 400 euros each, so maybe there’s hope… of course, they made a batch of 25 or so for the film so they probably didn’t mind making a bit of a price cut.)

Despite many mistaking it for black due to the dark lighting of the sequence, Bond’s leather jacket is undoubtedly dark brown. The wool standing drape collar is also dark brown.

CR7-CL-jkt-collar

There are four box-pleated pockets on the front that close with a snapped flap – two on the chest and two directly below it that end just above the waistline. Bond’s jacket closes with a double zipper down the front, allowing it to be partially unzipped at the bottom. The cuffs are plain with no buttons or snaps.

Due to the jacket’s popularity, inexpensive versions have also been produced and sold by FilmJackets.com for $199 and Magnoli Clothiers for $385. I have no firsthand experience with either jacket or retailer, but Magnoli’s lambskin version – yes, the more expensive of the two – appears to be the superior product due to the reviews and variety of colors versus FilmJackets.com’s only (incorrect) option of black. Still, this is not an endorsement as I have never seen, felt, or worn either jacket.

Underneath, Bond wears a much simpler item of clothing, a gray melange crew neck short-sleeve t-shirt in long staple Egyptian cotton. This t-shirt, custom-made by Sunspel for Casino Royale and now part of its “Riviera” line, was custom designed with a shorter fit “for increased movement- perfect for Bond’s ‘active’ lifestyle”, according to the site (where it is still available for $90).

CR7-CL-shirt

Daniel Craig wears the same t-shirt later in Casino Royale when arriving in Venice with Vesper, both on its own and layered under a blue long-sleeve polo (also by Sunspel). Yins should also check out James Bond Lifestyle’s great breakdown of the Sunspel shirts from Casino Royale.

Since Bond’s impromptu Miami trip interrupts a bout of sexy time with Solange, he doesn’t change his pants. His shirt was already half off, so he may as well put on something better for a possible chase, but he wears the same mink brown linen Ted Baker trousers worn with the black button-down shirt during the Bahamas poker game. These flat front trousers have slanted side pockets and a single rear patch pocket on the right.

Bond finds himself in yet another relatable everyday situation.

Bond finds himself in yet another relatable everyday situation.

The trousers, marketed by Ted Baker as the “Larked” model, have since been discontinued but a similar straight-leg model with plain-hemmed bottoms is still available from Ted Baker’s site with the “Deerchi” model. Unfortunately for the most dedicated buyer, Ted Baker is not manufacturing linen pants as of March 2015, so the mixed cotton Deerchi will have to do.

Although he wasn’t wearing a belt at the poker game, Bond realizes some action may be afoot and wears a dark brown leather belt with a squared silver clasp when he heads to Miami.

Bond's belt is best seen just before he uses the 007 equivalent of a Jedi mind trick to turn Dimitrios' own knife back on him.

Bond’s belt is best seen just before he uses the 007 equivalent of a Jedi mind trick to turn Dimitrios’ own knife back on him.

Casino Royale is notorious (at least in the sartorially-focused community) for numerous violations of the matching belt and shoes rule, but this isn’t the place to invoke it as:
a) I’m not totally sure that the shoes are black.
2) I’m not totally sure that the belt isn’t black, for that matter.
c) It’s just a movie.

Bond’s shoes are a point of contention for some, as they are not seen frequently during this sequence. A brief shot of him slamming on the brakes in the gas truck shows what looks like a pair of black leather cap toe bluchers, not the most practical shoe for the “active lifestyle” referred to by Sunspel. Bond also wears a pair of light gray cotton socks.

Bond hits the brakes to try and avoid becoming a terrorist. Secret agents sure walk a fine line.

Bond hits the brakes to try and avoid becoming a terrorist. Secret agents sure walk a fine line.

While his shoes may not be very appropriate for an action scene, his sporty Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 perfectly fits the bill with its scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and large black rubber diver’s strap. This Omega has a stainless steel case and black dial.

Bond's Omega is best seen in this sequence as he grapples with Dimitrios' knife to save his life. (Rhyme.)

Bond’s Omega is best seen in this sequence as he grapples with Dimitrios’ knife to save his life. (Rhyme.)

Once he starts dressing up in his suits and tuxedo, he swaps out the Planet Ocean for the more formal Seamaster Professional Diver.

How to Get the Look

Bond’s attire for the Miami chase is very stylish yet utilitarian, but it’s a shame to see such a beautiful jacket get ruined. It’s a whole different kind of shame to know that the production team was able to afford 25 of them while I’d have to sell my car – and someone else’s – before I would be able to pick up an Armani leather jacket.

ELLIPSIS.

ELLIPSIS.

  • Dark brown leather zip-front waist-length Giorgio Armani jacket with wool standing collar, four box-pleated front pockets with snap-closed flaps, and plain cuffs
  • Gray melange cotton short-sleeve crew neck Sunspel “Riviera” t-shirt
  • Mink brown linen flat front Ted Baker “Larked” trousers with belt loops, slanted side pockets, right rear patch pocket, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark brown leather belt with silver squared clasp
  • Black leather cap-toe bluchers
  • Light gray cotton socks
  • Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 on a large black rubber strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the film.

The Quote

Solange: You like married women… don’t you, James?
Bond: It keeps things simple.

And then, of course, things get a whole lot less simple for poor Bond.

Footnotes

This costume card (as seen on Amazon) from James Bond in Motion proves the color (and material) of each garment, showing the leather jacket, the long staple Egyptian cotton of the t-shirt, and the plain weave linen of the trousers.

CR7-costcard


Quantum of Solace – Bond’s Polo and Cream Jeans in Haiti

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Daniel Craig as James Bond in Quantum of Solace (2008).

Daniel Craig as James Bond in Quantum of Solace (2008).

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, British government secret agent

Port-au-Prince, Haiti, Summer 2008

Film: Quantum of Solace
Release Date: October 31, 2008
Director: Marc Forster
Costume Designer: Louise Frogley

Background

Quantum of Solace ostensibly picks up minutes after Casino Royale left off (offering no feasible explanation of Bond’s radically different suit, though) and quickly establishes itself as the more action-oriented yin to the introspective Casino Royale origin story’s yang. The sequel was determined to feature every kind of chase possible; we are immediately treated to a pulse-pounding car chase along the mountains of Italy before the opening credits, and Bond finds himself engaged in a desperate foot chase through the town of Siena immediately following.

After a few relatively calm minutes of exposition in London, Bond is dispatched to follow up on a lead in Haiti where he engages in a deadly knife fight, motorbike chase, and – ultimately – a motorboat chase. All that remains is an air chase and, don’t worry, that’s coming later.

What’d He Wear?

Just before the release of Quantum of Solace in the fall of 2008, Duncan Campbell from James Bond Lifestyle managed to get some answers from the film’s costume designer, Louise Frogley, about some of the looks that Daniel Craig and his co-stars would be sporting in the latest Bond adventure. According to Campbell:

Louise wanted to keep Daniel’s casual wear almost like a uniform. So for example, the most published photos are in the blue jacket and jeans. All the casual outfits are a variation on this.

The mentioned blue jacket and jeans were worn with a polo and chukka boots during the film’s climactic action scene in Bolivia. Earlier in the film, Bond indeed wears a variation of this, also sporting a dark polo, dark jacket, and chukka boots with jeans – although these jeans are a dressier pair of cream jeans more appropriate for a warm summer day in the Caribbean climate. Matt Spaiser also wrote an extensive breakdown of this classy casual outfit on his blog, The Suits of James Bond.

Bond wears a black Tom Ford short-sleeve polo shirt designed similarly to the popular blue Sunsel polo that Daniel Craig had worn in Casino Royale. The fine cotton pique knit shirt has a two-button placket, worn unbuttoned, and a breast pocket with a rounded-bottom. The shirt has a short fit with two short vents on each side that separate the slightly longer back from the shorter shirt front.

Edmund Slate shows no respect for a fine shirt.

Edmund Slate shows no respect for a fine shirt.

The shirt’s color, specifically whether or not it is black or a dark navy blue, is debated by some. The Rittenhouse Archive costume cards, specifically card QC22, would seem to answer this question. The cards have been posted to the AJB007.co.uk forum, and one is still available on eBay as of August 6, 2015. Given this information, I’m sticking to my guns with my belief that the shirt is black.

The costume cards for this outfit's shirt, pants, and jacket. What do you think? Black or blue?

The costume cards for this outfit’s shirt, pants, and jacket. What do you think? Black or blue?

After Edmund Slate so rudely slashes Bond’s shirt (and his torso), Bond is forced to clean himself up before heading back into public. Luckily for him, Slate is a man of style who happens to wear the same size clothing as 007! In Slate’s closet, Bond finds a black polyester motorcycle jacket that zips over the bloodied polo to hide any evidence of the fatal fight. In addition to the zip front, the jacket has a large shirt-style collar, vertical welted hand pockets, and set-in sleeves. The cuffs close on a single button, and there is a small tab on the right and left sides of the waistband that adjusts the fit on one of two buttons.

Bond meets Camille.

Bond meets Camille.

The jacket is reportedly from Y-3, Yohji Yamamoto’s fashion line with Adidas, with style number #609980 eventually representing the Quantum of Solace jacket on the market for a brief time in late 2008. Bond’s jacket was slightly modified from the commercially-available version with the Y-3 logo on the back right shoulder hidden or removed and the left collar tab folded back. According to some, the waist-length jacket is actually made of Gore-Tex, a lightweight, waterproof fabric designed to be worn in all weather to repel rain while absorbing water vapor. (The scientific name for Gore-Tex is polytetrafluoroethylene – or ePTFE – and it was co-invented by William L. Gore and his son Bob in 1969.) Whether Bond’s jacket is truly Gore-Tex or not, it’s almost certainly constructed from a synthetic waterproof poly-fiber.

Although some questions surround the manufacture of the shirt and jacket, Bond’s pants in Haiti have been widely confirmed to be a pair of cream-colored Levi’s 306 STA-PREST jeans. Unlike traditional denim jeans, the 306 STA-PREST jeans are a diagonally-ribbed twill weave in a cotton and polyester blend. The non-stretching qualities of the strongly-woven blend keep the slim fit and tapered legs intact and free of wrinkles to complement Dan Craig’s muscular physique.

After this, poor Bond was probably banned from the Hotel Dessalines.

After his deceptions and deadly fights on site, poor Bond was probably banned from the Hotel Dessalines.

The now-discontinued cream color was only available in the U.K. and Belgium, according to Campbell’s post, where he states that they are “as told to [him] by Louise and David Zaritsky – Levi’s 307 STA-PREST trousers (almost a chino style trouser) in cream.” Campbell accurately describes the STA-PREST jeans as resembling chino trousers, and the most obvious visual differentiation is the STA-PREST’s jean-style five-pocket layout including two angled slash front pockets, right side coin pocket, and two back patch pockets. More information about the cream Levi’s from Quantum of Solace is available at James Bond Lifestyle.

Bond wears the same Prada 2c 4099 2 belt with these pants as he does later with his blue jeans in Bolivia. The belt is made of black cross-hatched Saffiano leather, a texture characteristic of both Prada and Ferragamo belts according to James Bond Lifestyle, and it closes through a square steel single-claw buckle.

QoS3Haiti-CL3-Pants2Belt

Bond also wears the same shoes as he wears later in Bolivia, a pair of dark brown sueded leather Church’s Ryder III chukka boots with two lace eyelets and Dainite® studded rubber soles that give him extra traction when running from motorbike to motorboat. He wears these boots with a pair of brown ribbed cotton socks that flow nicely from the boots up the legs.

Badass!

Badass!

These chukka boots appear to be Bond’s casual footwear of choice in Quantum of Solace. As Frogley told Campbell: “The Church’s Ryder III brown desert boots are the ONLY ones he sports in Quantum of Solace,” quelling any rumors that he wore other colors or boot makers in the film.

Interestingly, Bond always wears a black belt with his brown chukka boots. This is considered a faux pas by many, although it wasn’t the first time Craig’s Bond had done so; in Casino Royale, Bond wears a black belt with his brown chukka boots when he arrives in the Bahamas wearing a gray linen suit. Personally, I believe it’s more important that an outfit has a more consistent flow rather than sticking to arbitrary matching rules. Bond’s black belt nicely reflects the black top half of the outfit while the brown boots and socks soften the warm tones of the cream jeans. A stylish man like Daniel Craig knows how to dress, and the team of costumers outfitting him for the Bond series isn’t going to make a decision like that without thinking it through. If it looks good, it is good, and that’s the case here.

The inevitable Omega on Bond’s wrist is the same Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m Co-Axial Chronometer 2201.50.00 that he wears throughout Quantum of Solace. The 42mm case and deployment clasp link bracelet are stainless steel. The round dial is black with a 3:00 date window and luminous hour markers and hands. The specific number of Bond’s watch, which was auctioned by Christie’s three years ago for £34,850, is #81087613. This Omega is the only one that 007 sports during Quantum of Solace, a reasonable decision given his rogue status for most of the film’s short timeline.

Disclaimer: Omega does not endorse breaking and entering.

Disclaimer: Omega does not endorse breaking and entering.

Bond’s sunglasses are also the same silver-framed Tom Ford TF108 aviators that we see throughout Quantum of Solace, worn with both suits and casual wear. These Italian-made sunglasses are on a semi matte rhodium frame with black temple tips and smoke blue lenses (19V).

QoS3Haiti-CX-TFSunglasses

Okay, now I’m thinking the shirt might be blue. Dammit.

Like the watch, Bond’s sunglasses were also sold at the “50 Years of James Bond” Christie’s auction in 2012 and fetched a decent £23,750, far more than the original $400 asking price.

Go Big or Go Home

The Haitian scenes (and M’s reaction to them) establish Bond as more ruthless than we’ve seen him before, willing to kill on his path for both answers and vengeance. To be fair, M is a bit harsh when she criticizes Bond’s methods. He honestly has no choice but to kill Mitchell and Slate as both men were attacking him with deadly force in each situation.

While the earlier Mitchell fight was a more traditional Bond-style battle with running, suits, guns, and exotic, setting-specific background action, the brawl with Edmund Slate in his room at the Hotel Dessalines is a dirty, violent fight more in the style of Jason Bourne than the Bond we’re used to. It makes sense that a 21st century agent would need to be trained for brutal hand-to-hand combat, and it’s a welcomed piece of realism unseen in the Bond series since the Orient Express melee between Sean Connery’s 007 and Robert Shaw’s Red Grant in From Russia with Love.

For those interested in getting their hands on Bond-ian props, the knife that Slate uses when attacking Bond is a Masters of Defense (MOD) Harkins Triton Out-the-Front automatic knife, as identified by James Bond Lifestyle. The plain-edged dagger extends to 8.45 inches long when the double-action black tungsten-coated 154CM stainless steel blade is flipped out to its full 3.6-inch length. The handle is milspec-anodized aircraft aluminum.

A less deadly device featuring in this scene is Bond’s Titanium silver edition Sony Ericsson C902 Cyber-shot cell phone with a slide-out lens cover and 5MP camera that Bond uses throughout Quantum to capture images of his foe to send back to MI6 for identification. More info about the tie-in phone available to promote the film can be found at James Bond Lifestyle.

QoS3Haiti-cropHow to Get the Look

Bond’s Haiti casual attire is an easily adaptable outfit to be comfortable but look stylish in an informal situation, especially one that may include some unexpected action.

  • Black waterproof Y-3 motorcycle jacket with large collar, zip front, vertical welted hand pockets, 1-button cuffs, and 2-button adjustable side tabs
  • Black cotton pique knit Tom Ford short-sleeve polo shirt with 2-button collar placket and rounded breast pocket
  • Cream cotton/polyester blend ribbed twill weave Levi’s 306 STA-PREST jeans with zip fly, belt loops, two angled slash front pockets, right coin pocket, and patch back pockets
  • Dark brown Church’s Ryder III sueded leather 2-eyelet chukka desert boots with Dainite® studded rubber soles.
  • Brown ribbed cotton socks
  • Black cross-hatch Saffiano leather Prada #2C-4099-2 belt with square steel single-claw buckle
  • Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m Co-Axial Chronometer stainless steel wristwatch with steel bracelet, black face, and black bezel
  • Tom Ford TF108 aviator sunglasses with semi matte silver rhodium frame, black temple tips, and smoke blue 19V lenses

A very dark blue jacket and/or polo would probably also be a fine substitute for Craig’s black. Who knows… it may even be more accurate!

The Gun

Bond gets his hand on Slate’s case before he leaves the hotel and discovers a photo of Camille with a Smith & Wesson M&P 360 revolver, a not-so-subtle indication that Slate was hired to kill Camille.

"I think someone wants to kill you."

“I think someone wants to kill you.”

No longer available on the market, the M&P 360 is a scandium alloy-framed snubnose revolver designed from Smith & Wesson’s small J-frame series and meant for lightweight and easy concealment. It weighs less than a pound when unloaded – 13.3 ounces to be exact – and conceals easily with a 1.875″ barrel. The finish is matte black with black synthetic rubber grips.

Chambered for five rounds of .357 Magnum (or .38 Special +P) in its stainless steel cylinder, the M&P 360 would be a better choice for personal protection than for an assassin, especially since Slate’s weapon is already in a case and evidently not meant to be carried. Although “hammerless” revolvers are considered more practical for concealed carry, the M&P 360 with its exposed hammers offers a smooth, even trigger pull in both single-action and double-action modes, although firing the latter with the more powerful .357 Magnum tests the weapon’s accuracy (depending on the shooter’s stability, of course).

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

I don’t have any friends.


Layer Cake – Rust Brown Chalkstripe Jacket and Jeans

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Daniel Craig in Layer Cake (2004).

Daniel Craig in Layer Cake (2004).

Vitals

Daniel Craig as an unnamed London drug dealer (the credits call him “XXXX”)

London, Summer 2004

Film: Layer Cake
Release Date: October 1, 2004
Director: Matthew Vaughn
Costume Designer: Stephanie Collie

Background

The outset of Layer Cake introduces its unnamed central character, a shrewd, young drug dealer played by Daniel Craig with a level of stoic cool that argues the film as a potential “audition” of sorts for Craig eventually taking the 007 mantle.

To drive the Bond point home, Craig’s character meets with fellow villains to announce his retirement at the Stoke Poges Golf Club, the venerable setting for Bond’s iconic golf match against Auric Goldfinger forty years earlier.

The 007 connection ends there as Dan – credited as XXXX – heads to a nightclub to broker an ecstasy deal with a couple of Liverpudlian pill slingers. While there, he runs into an ambitious but obnoxious gangster named Q Sidney (Ben Whishaw) and his knockout girlfriend Tammy (Sienna Miller). An additional layer of intrigue comes from the fact that the moronic Sidney’s uncle is “The Duke”, a cowboy gangster who got poor XXXX in trouble with some ruthless Serbs.

What’d He Wear?

Although sport coats and suit jackets worn with jeans aren’t a universally loved combination in the sartorial community, Daniel Craig’s vibrant rust-colored jacket in Layer Cake has had many online forums buzzing with people trying to track down information about it. Plus, his nightclub outfit is far less douchey than the sea of Ed Hardy and Tapout t-shirts one unfortunately finds in most clubs these days.

Dan brings some class to the London clubhopping crowd.

Dan brings some class to the London clubhopping crowd.

Like the navy blue pinstripe suit jacket he wears elsewhere in Layer Cake, XXXX’s rust brown chalkstripe jacket is worn with a white shirt and jeans for a casual twist on the usual sport coat look. It’s certainly not something James Bond would wear; the bold brown chalkstripe jacket is more evocative of the striped suit that Robert Redford wore for “date night” as Johnny Hooker in The Sting.

Matt Spaiser at The Suits of James Bond deduced that the navy pinstripe coat was an orphaned suit jacket, but the sporty look of the brown striped jacket leads me to believe it is likely a designer sport coat meant to capitalize on the then-stylish trend of a business suit jacket with jeans. For the sake of this post and based on its usage, I’ll refer to the brown jacket as a sport coat.

The sport coat is rust brown with a bold white chalkstripe, manufactured from a sporty fabric that takes on an iridescent sheen in different light, reflecting blue outside and red under the lights of the club. It is single-breasted with notch lapels that roll to the top of the 2-button stance.

LCbrn-CL1-Jkt2

The jacket has a comfortable fit – especially when compared to Craig’s jackets in Skyfall eight years later – with a suppressed waist and long double vents. The shoulders are straight with roped sleeveheads and 3-button cuffs at the end of each sleeve. Flapped hip pockets sit straight along the waistline, and the welted breast pocket offers XXXX a quick and convenient way to pocket Tammy’s phone number at the club.

Proof that Bond never was one to listen to much that Q had to say.

Proof that Bond never was one to listen to much that Q had to say.

Other than the coat, the rest of XXXX’s outfit is the same as we see with the navy suit jacket. He wears the same white long-sleeve shirt with its large 2-button spread collar, front placket, and 2-button cuffs.

LCbrn-CL2-Shirt

He also wears the same medium-dark wash Levi’s jeans with a wide brown textured leather belt. The belt has three staggered roles of holes along the back and a large brass double-prong buckle in the front.

Dan knows how to be discreet even if his potential bedmates don't.

Dan knows how to be discreet even if his potential bedmates don’t.

Craig’s leather R.M. Williams “Henley” Chelsea boots appropriately match the brown leather belt while also nicely drawing out the brown in the jacket. The color of the boots, according to R.M. Williams, is actually a dark shade of brown called “chestnut” for the brand’s purposes.

Craig’s wristwatch throughout Layer Cake – often believed to be a Rolex DateJust – is stainless with a black dial on a steel link bracelet.

How to Get the Look

Daniel Craig’s Layer Cake style is consistent for a young go-getter who ably balances style with the shrewdness that allows him to fly under the radar when needed.

LCbrn-crop

  • Rust brown chalkstripe single-breasted 2-button sport coat with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, flapped straight hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and long double vents
  • White long-sleeve shirt with tall 2-button spread collar, front placket, and 2-button cuffs
  • Medium-dark blue Levi’s denim jeans
  • Wide brown textured leather belt with large brass double-prong buckle
  • Dark brown (“chestnut”) leather R.M. Williams “Henley” Chelsea boots with brown elastic side gussets
  • Rolex Datejust wristwatch with stainless case/bracelet and black dial

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Life is so fucking good, I can taste it in my spit.


Skyfall – Bond’s Barbour Jacket in Scotland

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Daniel Craig as James Bond in Skyfall (2012).

Daniel Craig as James Bond in Skyfall (2012).

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, rogue British government agent

Scotland, Spring 2012

Film: Skyfall
Release Date: November 9, 2012
Director: Sam Mendes
Costume Designer: Jany Temime

Background

After a relentless cross-continental game of cat and mouse (or, more accurately, rat and rat), James Bond and Raoul Silva finally come to a head at Bond’s childhood home of Skyfall Manor in the Scottish Highlands. The stakes have been raised by the appearance of M, a rare sight in a Bond action scene and here a gun-toting queen in Bond and Silva’s chess game.

Bond, M, and the estate’s old gamekeeper Kincaide (Albert Finney) prepare for the inevitable assault with a charmingly dark twist on Kevin McCallister’s booby-trapping exploits, with an armor-plated Aston Martin DB5 replacing a train-hopping Michael Jordan cutout. With the stage set, all the three armed stalwarts can do is wait.

What’d He Wear?

A nice thing about the latest entries in the James Bond series is that brand tie-ins are so heavily promoted that it’s very easy for a fan to replicate 007’s style… given that said fan has enough money and advance notice.

One of the most popular outfits worn by Daniel Craig in Skyfall was his casual attire while facing off against Silva’s baddies, and it’s been nicely covered by both James Bond Lifestyle and The Suits of James Bond. The olive Barbour jacket worn in these scenes has become especially sought after.

Daniel Craig takes some direction from director Sam Mendes on set.

Daniel Craig takes some direction from director Sam Mendes on location.

Bond’s jacket is a Barbour “X To Ki To”, a limited edition designed by Tokihito Yoshida for the brand’s Beacon Heritage line. Constructed from 6 oz. Sylkoil waxed cotton, the sports jacket is olive brown – the only color available for this particular jacket – with Barbour’s distinctive tartan lining. The front of the jacket is single-breasted with two buttons closely placed near the lower torso, where a jacket is traditionally buttoned. A third button is further up at mid-chest. There is also a button at the top which Bond leaves unbuttoned.

Bond stands ready for action in front of Skyfall Manor.

Bond stands ready for action in front of Skyfall Manor.

The Barbour “X To Ki To” has a button-flapped breast pocket and bellowed hip pockets that also close with a single-button flap. The ventless back of the jacket features two zip “poacher pockets”, which originated as a sneaky way for poachers to hide their ill-gotten game on their person. With Bond in a combat situation with no central base, it’s smart for him to have as many pockets as possible for ammunition and other accessories.

The Barbour's "poacher pockets" are seen on the back of the jacket.

The Barbour’s “poacher pockets” are seen on the back of the jacket.

The jacket was designed to protect its wearer in inclement weather with a weather flap under the lapels and a leather, triangle-shaped throat latch, as well as a large hood that was removed by the Skyfall costume team for Daniel Craig. It’s not unreasonable to assume that Bond would modify his jacket like this for an action-packed showdown when a hood flapping around may just slow him down. The same soft olive leather is also present on the jacket’s shoulder patches, elbow patches, and cuff edges.

Bond's in for a long night...

Bond’s in for a long night…

This timeless – and very British – jacket is a nice nod to Skyfall‘s consistent message to the values of “[doing] things the old-fashioned way”. It’s also a functional garment for its place and context. More details about the X To Ki To can be found at James Bond Lifestyle.

The Barbour “X To Ki To” quickly sold out due to its association with Skyfall (and the fact that it’s a damn nice jacket) so Barbour rolled out its Dept. B Commander jacket in July 2013 to meet the growing demand. James Bond Lifestyle nicely compared the Commander jacket – which JBL notes was renamed “Beacon Sports Jacket” in December of that year – to the original X To Ki To. The Commander appears to be a simplified version of the X To Ki To without the hood that had been removed for Skyfall. Rob Delaney would wear this later Barbour jacket on his show Catastrophe.

Scotland has a famously cool, wet climate with a mean that doesn’t exceed 55°F even in its warmest summer months. Bond wisely layers beneath his jacket to keep himself warm but not too bundled as he hops between DB5, manor estate, secret passageway, swamp, and chapel.

Bond's layers keep him warm but mobile.

Bond’s layers keep him warm but mobile.

The most luxurious piece of clothing that Bond wears in this scene is the blue N.Peal “Oxford Round Neck” sweater made from single-ply Inner Mongolian cashmere. N.Peal delivered 25 of these crew neck jumpers – in a color that they dubbed “Blue Wave” – to the production. James Bond Lifestyle has more information about the N.Peal jumper used in Skyfall as well as an interview with N.Peal’s managing director where the origins of the color are further explored:

For the 2012 season we developed a color named “Blue Wave”. It was one of a series of colors that was intended to evoke the spirit of the Scottish Highlands – vibrant colors but in muted tones that reflect the harshness and beauty of both the landscape and weather of a Scottish winter… The “Blue Wave” was not therefore designed specifically for Bond – but its conception and intention fitted perfectly with both the “Blue” theme of Skyfall and the Scotland Highlands where the sweater was to be worn. By sheer chance we have designed and developed a shade that was perfect for the movie.

Skyfall begat a collaboration with both Daniel Craig and the James Bond franchise. When Spectre was announced to the press in December, Dan wore the same Oxford Round Neck sweater, although it was technically in “Imperial Blue” rather than the more vibrant “Blue Wave”. 007 also sported three N.Peal roll neck sweaters in Spectre in blue, charcoal, and gray.

Tied and tucked into the sweater is a dark brown wool scarf that I have heard was provided by John Varvatos. Between the sweater and his skin, Bond wears a white long-sleeve henley that is best seen when preparing dynamite in the Home Alone-like sequence and later when he disappears into the manor’s priest hole.

The Hoarders team halted their work at Skyfall Manor after finding random sticks of dynamite in every nook and cranny of the house.

The Hoarders team halted their work at Skyfall Manor after finding random sticks of dynamite in every nook and cranny of the house.

Bond’s trousers are a pair of dark brown corduroys that are styled like jeans with a standard five-pocket layout, metal rivets, and a button fly. They are likely the All Saints “Corduane Iggy” in 14-wale cord cotton. He may wear them with a belt, but his waistband is never clearly seen. (Not by me, anyway.)

While £425 might sound steep for a pair of leather boots that would just get inevitably ruined by tromping around in the Highlands, Bond requires the best. He wears a pair of dark brown Crockett & Jones “Islay” full-brogue derby boots constructed from scotch country calf. The wing-tip boots have, as James Bond Lifestyle describes, “bold punching detail” and Dainite rubber soles with storm welts. They are laced through four eyelets with five metal hooks up the front shaft.

I wouldn't exactly expect these boots to be very efficient water shoes...

I wouldn’t exactly expect these boots to be very efficient water shoes…

Not only do the boots look good with the outfit, but they’re regionally appropriate given the Scotch country grain calf leather and the evocative “Islay” model name; coincidentally, Islay is also my favorite region for Scotch whisky.

Bond continues to wear the same Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Mid Size Chronometer, reference number 231.10.39.21.03.001, in a stainless steel 38.5 mm case on a stainless bracelet. The watch’s blue dial is decorated with the Teak Concept pattern with a 3:00 date window.

Scratch-resistant or not, that crystal's gonna be shattered if the dynamite goes off with the watch right there!

Scratch-resistant or not, that crystal’s gonna be shattered if the dynamite goes off with the watch right there!

Bond finds himself in some heavy combat situations, both in and out of the water, so the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and 500-foot water resistance come in handy!

SF8-cropHow to Get the Look

Bond’s Barbour jacket is interestingly a microcosm for Skyfall itself – timeless, rugged, and definitively British. With the rest of the outfit, he looks ready for battle… or at least a comfortable cool day in the highlands.

 

  • Barbour “X To Ki To” Beacon Heritage Limited Edition single-breasted 3-button sport jacket in olive waxed cotton with button-flapped breast pocket, button-flapped hip bellows pockets, vertical-zip rear poacher pockets, and leather accents on patches and cuffs
  • Blue cashmere N.Peal “Oxford Round Neck” crew neck sweater
  • Off-white long-sleeve henley
  • Dark brown corduroy All Saints “Corduane Iggy” slim fit trousers with jeans-style pockets, button fly, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark brown scotch country grain calf leather Crockett & Jones “Islay” full brogue wingtip derby boots with 4 eyelets & 5 hooks and Dainite rubber soles
  • Dark brown wool scarf
  • Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Mid Size Chronometer 231.10.39.21.03.001 in stainless steel case with blue dial on stainless steel bracelet

Rather than modifying a Barbour “X To Ki To” with a removed hood and tabs, you could pick up the Commander and/or Beacon Sports Jacket developed to honor Commander Bond’s popular jacket from Skyfall.

The Gun

Although he still has his familiar Walther PPK, Bond chooses to arm himself for the final battle with a fascinatingly different firearm – a stunning Anderson Wheeler double rifle chambered for the powerful .500 Nitro Express round.

According to Skyfall, the rifle had belonged to Bond’s father, Andrew Bond, who had passed away in the early 1980s but left his mark on the weapon in the form of his monogram “A.B.” plated on the stock. This is yet another strongly British item to appear in the sequence as Anderson Wheeler is based in London and the .500 Nitro Express big bore round had been developed in the U.K. sometime in the 1860s.

Bond takes aim with his father's Anderson Wheeler Double Rifle.

Bond takes aim with his father’s Anderson Wheeler Double Rifle.

The double rifle is still featured on Anderson Wheeler’s site, and James Bond Lifestyle states that the same rifle seen in Skyfall can be custom ordered from them for around $24,500. JBL also determined the choice of the weapon:

The movie’s armorer acquired the rifle from London based gun and rifle maker Anderson Wheeler. The request was for a gentleman’s big game hunting rifle, also known as a ‘double rifle’. Anderson Wheeler provided a 500 Nitro Box Lock Express Rifle, which loads a .50 calibre round that fires a 570 grain bullet at around 2,200 feet per second.

Anderson Wheeler offers this sidelock ejector double rifle in multiple hunting cartridges from .375 up to .600 Nitro Express. The model seen in the film is .500 Nitro Express, although you’d never know from our tough protagonist’s recoil; IMFDB states: “Bond’s depiction of recoil is akin to that of a nail gun, despite the mammoth cartridge.”

A man's man doesn't feel when a .500 Nitro Express cartridge is fired merely two feet away from his face. Or he's really good at hiding it.

A man’s man doesn’t feel when a .500 Nitro Express cartridge is fired merely two feet away from his face. Or he’s really good at hiding it.

Anderson Wheeler’s double rifle barrels can be fitted to 24 to 26 inches with a 4mm ivory bead moon-sight on the front sight that can be folded over the 2mm silver bead based on shooting conditions, and the stock is manufactured from hand-rubbed, oil-finished Turkish walnut.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Some men are coming to kill us. We’re going to kill them first.

Footnotes

As today is Black Friday, the biggest shopping day of the year, a Barbour jacket may be something worth keeping in mind for any well-dressed gents in your life… or perhaps it’s the time you nudge a loved one that you wouldn’t mind one for yourself!

Today is also often commemorated as a major hunting day – at least here in western Pennsylvania – so this would be some very sporting attire for a day out in the woods.


Casino Royale: Bond’s Leather Jacket in Miami

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Daniel Craig as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006).

Daniel Craig as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006).

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, British government secret agent

Miami, July 9, 2006

Film: Casino Royale
Release Date: November 14, 2006
Director: Martin Campbell
Costume Designer: Lindy Hemming

Background

This bitter winter weather has many level-headed folks here in the Northeast U.S. hopping a flight down to Florida where the weather is sunny and warm, the women are tan and beautiful, and the serial killers only kill other serial killersCasino Royale gives James Bond his first return to Miami since Goldfinger, and luckily he leaves the blue terrycloth playsuit behind this time.

It’s been a few months since this blog has checked in with Mr. Bond, and I hope that his post will portend a much warmer 00-7th of March for those of us dealing with this frigid cold!

What’d He Wear?

Bond’s leather jacket, t-shirt, and trousers in Miami has become one of the most popular outfits from the recent era. Matt Spaiser nicely covered it with a well-researched post on The Suits of James Bond, which includes a snippet of an interview with costumer Lindy Hemming.

I’ll shatter any illusions right now – Bond wears a Giorgio Armani leather jacket that originally cost around $4,000… and that’s not including the customization that the production received so that the close fit flattered Daniel Craig’s physique. However, it’s still an excellent jacket and worth keeping in mind while shopping for your next leather. (Also, Armani lowered the price for the Casino Royale production to about 400 euros each, so maybe there’s hope… of course, they made a batch of 25 or so for the film so they probably didn’t mind making a bit of a price cut.)

Despite many mistaking it for black due to the dark lighting of the sequence, Bond’s leather jacket is undoubtedly dark brown. The wool standing drape collar is also dark brown.

CR7-CL-jkt-collar

There are four box-pleated pockets on the front that close with a snapped flap – two on the chest and two directly below it that end just above the waistline. Bond’s jacket closes with a double zipper down the front, allowing it to be partially unzipped at the bottom. The cuffs are plain with no buttons or snaps.

Due to the jacket’s popularity, inexpensive versions have also been produced and sold by FilmJackets.com for $199 and Magnoli Clothiers for $385. I have no firsthand experience with either jacket or retailer, but Magnoli’s lambskin version – yes, the more expensive of the two – appears to be the superior product due to the reviews and variety of colors versus FilmJackets.com’s only (incorrect) option of black. Still, this is not an endorsement as I have never seen, felt, or worn either jacket.

Underneath, Bond wears a much simpler item of clothing, a gray melange crew neck short-sleeve t-shirt in long staple Egyptian cotton. This t-shirt, custom-made by Sunspel for Casino Royale and now part of its “Riviera” line, was custom designed with a shorter fit “for increased movement- perfect for Bond’s ‘active’ lifestyle”, according to the site (where it is still available for $90).

CR7-CL-shirt

Daniel Craig wears the same t-shirt later in Casino Royale when arriving in Venice with Vesper, both on its own and layered under a blue long-sleeve polo (also by Sunspel). Yins should also check out James Bond Lifestyle’s great breakdown of the Sunspel shirts from Casino Royale.

Since Bond’s impromptu Miami trip interrupts a bout of sexy time with Solange, he doesn’t change his pants. His shirt was already half off, so he may as well put on something better for a possible chase, but he wears the same mink brown linen Ted Baker trousers worn with the black button-down shirt during the Bahamas poker game. These flat front trousers have slanted side pockets and a single rear patch pocket on the right.

Bond finds himself in yet another relatable everyday situation.

Bond finds himself in yet another relatable everyday situation.

The trousers, marketed by Ted Baker as the “Larked” model, have since been discontinued but a similar straight-leg model with plain-hemmed bottoms is still available from Ted Baker’s site with the “Deerchi” model. Unfortunately for the most dedicated buyer, Ted Baker is not manufacturing linen pants as of March 2015, so the mixed cotton Deerchi will have to do.

Although he wasn’t wearing a belt at the poker game, Bond realizes some action may be afoot and wears a dark brown leather belt with a squared steel single-claw buckle when he heads to Miami.

Bond's belt is best seen just before he uses the 007 equivalent of a Jedi mind trick to turn Dimitrios' own knife back on him.

Bond’s belt is best seen just before he uses the 007 equivalent of a Jedi mind trick to turn Dimitrios’ own knife back on him.

Casino Royale is notorious (at least in the sartorially-focused community) for numerous violations of the matching belt and shoes rule, but this isn’t the place to invoke it as:
a) I’m not totally sure that the shoes are black.
2) I’m not totally sure that the belt isn’t black, for that matter.
c) It’s just a movie.

Bond’s shoes are a point of contention for some, as they are not seen frequently during this sequence. A brief shot of him slamming on the brakes in the gas truck shows what looks like a pair of black leather cap toe bluchers, not the most practical shoe for the “active lifestyle” referred to by Sunspel. Bond also wears a pair of light gray cotton socks.

Bond hits the brakes to try and avoid becoming a terrorist. Secret agents sure walk a fine line.

Bond hits the brakes to try and avoid becoming a terrorist. Secret agents sure walk a fine line.

While his shoes may not be very appropriate for an action scene, his sporty Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 perfectly fits the bill with its scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and large black rubber diver’s strap. This Omega has a stainless steel case and black dial.

Bond's Omega is best seen in this sequence as he grapples with Dimitrios' knife to save his life. (Rhyme.)

Bond’s Omega is best seen in this sequence as he grapples with Dimitrios’ knife to save his life. (Rhyme.)

Once he starts dressing up in his suits and tuxedo, he swaps out the Planet Ocean for the more formal Seamaster Professional Diver.

How to Get the Look

Bond’s attire for the Miami chase is very stylish yet utilitarian, but it’s a shame to see such a beautiful jacket get ruined. It’s a whole different kind of shame to know that the production team was able to afford 25 of them while I’d have to sell my car – and someone else’s – before I would be able to pick up an Armani leather jacket.

ELLIPSIS.

ELLIPSIS.

  • Dark brown leather zip-front waist-length Giorgio Armani jacket with wool standing collar, four box-pleated front pockets with snap-closed flaps, and plain cuffs
  • Gray melange cotton short-sleeve crew neck Sunspel “Riviera” t-shirt
  • Mink brown linen flat front Ted Baker “Larked” trousers with belt loops, slanted side pockets, right rear patch pocket, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark brown leather belt with squared steel single-claw buckle
  • Black leather cap-toe bluchers
  • Light gray cotton socks
  • Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 on a large black rubber strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the film.

The Quote

Solange: You like married women… don’t you, James?
Bond: It keeps things simple.

And then, of course, things get a whole lot less simple for poor Bond.

Footnotes

This costume card (as seen on Amazon) from James Bond in Motion proves the color (and material) of each garment, showing the leather jacket, the long staple Egyptian cotton of the t-shirt, and the plain weave linen of the trousers.

CR7-costcard


Casino Royale: Bond’s Poker Shirt and Trousers in Bahamas

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Daniel Craig as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006).

Daniel Craig as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006).

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, British government agent and card sharp

Bahamas, July 9, 2006

Film: Casino Royale
Release Date: November 14, 2006
Director: Martin Campbell
Costume Designer: Lindy Hemming

Background

For the 00-7th of July, BAMF Style is traveling back ten years (or at least two days shy of ten years) to Daniel Craig’s first outing as James Bond in Casino Royale. The agent finds himself supposedly “on holiday” at One&Only Ocean Club in the Bahamas, secretly following up on a lead for his investigation.

Bond’s Caribbean getaway appropriately leads to cocktails, beautiful women, and a game of high-stakes – or “Aston Martin stakes” poker – in an exotic locale.

What’d He Wear?

Unlike earlier Bond films that found 007 waltzing into a casino wearing a tuxedo regardless of the actual formality, Craig’s Bond dresses comfortably and practically while still looking fashionable for an evening round of poker at One&Only Ocean Club.

Bond appears to be wearing a basic black button-up shirt untucked with a pair of taupe linen trousers when he strolls into the gambling area. However, information from the Absolutely James Bond forums (1 2 3 4) reveal that plenty of work from the wardrobe team went into modifying the shirt to look just right for this scene.

The black soft polyester long-sleeve shirt worn by Daniel Craig in Casino Royale was from Alfani, a Macy’s house brand. People with costume cards or who have seen the shirt firsthand describe its woven “microfiber” texture that feels almost like suede or velvet. Costume designer Lindy Hemming even reveals the shirt’s “heavy navy blue” color, although there is still some forum discussion. Since the shirt looks black on screen, it will be treated as a black shirt in this post.

Bond eyes his prey for the evening.

Bond eyes his prey for the evening.

After the shirt was obtained, it still had plenty of customization ahead of it for the production. The shirt originally had a concealed button-down collar with hidden tabs beneath the collar that fixed it to the shirt; both the collar buttons and the hidden tabs were removed. The shirt’s uneven hem, originally meant to be worn tucked in, was tailored to be cut straight square around the bottom with a short notched vent on each side. (This trend led to Chris Riccobono founding the New York clothing company UNTUCKit to specifically cater to men wishing to look fashionable while wearing an untucked shirt. Had UNTUCKit existed when Casino Royale was filmed, we might have seen Bond wearing the “Aubon” cotton oxford shirt or “Valpolicella” soft poplin shirt.)

The final result, as customized for the on-screen shirt, reminds me of a black microfiber Bruno shirt I had also purchased from Macy’s around 2001… more on that below! Like the Casino Royale shirt, it had a non-buttoning soft collar, plain front, breast pocket, and straight hem. (If only the team had reached out to me in 2006, as I would have been more than happy to source my shirt for 007!)

Bond wears Ted Baker “Larked” linen flat front trousers in mink brown. These trousers have slanted side pockets and a patch pocket on the back right. Bond wears them without a belt while casually gambling at the Ocean Club, but he slips on a belt with the brown Armani leather jacket and gray t-shirt when he follows a lead to Miami later that night. The trousers have a straight cut and plain-hemmed bottoms.

Bond makes the most of his brief time with Solange (Caterina Murino).

Bond makes the most of his brief time with Solange (Caterina Murino).

Although the “Larked” model has been discontinued, 007 wannabes jonesing for a pair of Bond-style linen trousers can try Ted Baker “Linchi”, available in a gray linen-cotton blend for $89 as of June 2016. If you want a summer trouser more along the lines of the mink pants sported by Daniel Craig, Ted Baker also offers the “Tegatin” mini-design cotton trousers for $71.

Bond wears black leather cap-toe oxfords at the poker game and throughout his floor session with Solange that he appears to continue wearing when he heads up to Miami, despite the surprising formality of the shoe with this outfit. They do not appear to be the John Lobb “Luffield” 2-eyelet derby shoes that he later wears with his dinner suit at Casino Royale.

Bond makes a subtle but grand entrance into the gaming area.

Bond makes a subtle but grand entrance into the gaming area.

Bond wears two Omega wristwatches in Casino Royale; this scene features the sportier Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 on a large black rubber strap. The “Big Size” moniker is no misnomer due to the watch’s 45.5mm stainless steel case. The bezel and the dial, covered by a scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal, are both black.

Bond doesn't seem too concerned about timekeeping at a moment like this...

Bond doesn’t seem too concerned about timekeeping at a moment like this…

More information about the watch can be found at James Bond Lifestyle.

What to Imbibe

James Bond sidles up to the hotel bar as gamblers around him play round after round of high stakes poker. This is the first we’ve seen the agent ordering a drink on-screen. Will it be a vodka martini, shaken not stirred…?

Large Mount Gay with soda, please.

Even the two buffoonish German tourists are shocked by Bond's supposedly "uncharacteristic" drink of choice!

Even the two buffoonish German tourists are shocked by Bond’s supposedly “uncharacteristic” drink of choice!

CR6Black-LS-MountGayRumMuch like his untucked black shirt in a casual resort casino, Bond’s choice makes sense given his surroundings. Why expect to always be seeing him in a tuxedo drinking a martini – just because he’s James Bond in a casino? Of course our ruggedly sophisticated hero would order a drink appropriate to the context of the scene, and for a calm summer evening of gambling in the Caribbean, Bond chooses wisely with a Rum and Soda.

The first distinction to make is that this is not a “Rum and Coke,” the highball of choice for college students and obsessive Dr Pepper drinkers. While that ubiquitous campus concoction uses cola, Bond orders his with plain soda water to both neutralize the potency of the rum (keeping his mind sharp while gambling) and to offer refreshing coolness on a warm night.

Mount Gay has been distilled in Barbados for centuries, with the oldest surviving company deed from 1703 dating it as the longest existing rum brand in the world. It has a strong association with sailors, particularly English sailors due to the British influence in Barbados, making it an especially savvy choice for Commander Bond of the Royal Navy Reserve.

I tend to shy away from rum after too many nights serving under Admiral Nelson and Captain Morgan in college, but Mount Gay offers a full flavor without the sweetness or spice that drove me away from rum and into the welcoming arms of whiskey. It was a bottle of Mount Gay Eclipse that reintroduced rum to my palette.

(It’s also worth mentioning that Bond also enjoys some chilled Bollinger Grand Année champagne with Solange back in his room.)

How to Get the Look

CR6Black-crop2Casino Royale proves that James Bond doesn’t need to sport his finest dinner suit every time he walks into a casino; in fact, he need go no further than the Macy’s men’s casual department!

  • Black soft polyester Alfani button-up shirt with soft collar, plain front, breast pocket, squared button cuffs, and customized straight hem
  • Mink brown linen flat front Ted Baker “Larked” trousers with belt loops, slanted side pockets, right rear patch pocket, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark brown leather belt with squared steel single-claw buckle
  • Black leather cap-toe bluchers
  • Light gray cotton socks
  • Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 on a large black rubber strap

According to an Absolutely James Bond forum post, the Alfani shirt’s tag read “Made in Vietnam/ WPL 8046” which may help some potential wearers track down the original shirt, although the “WPL 8046” code seems to have been reused on other items for both men and women.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

‘n abend.

Footnote

The shirt I purchased around 2001 from Macy’s shares some similarities with the end result of the on-screen shirt worn by Daniel Craig. This Bruno “Sueded Microfiber” shirt is 75% rayon and 25% polyester… not the most luxurious blend, but the microfiber texture keeps it comfortable fifteen years after I first picked it up.

CR6Black-NGBruno

Sadly, only a drop remains of my Mount Gay Eclipse, but I plan on rectifying that with a new bottle soon.

Although it’s a lightweight material, I typically don’t wear it in the summer because the polyester blend doesn’t breathe nearly as well as any of my cotton or linen alternatives. Still, it’s a worthwhile shirt that I didn’t expect to last this long and it comes in handy when channeling Daniel Craig’s James Bond dressing down (or David Duchovny’s Hank Moody dressing up!)



Spectre – Brown Linen-Blend Jacket in Morocco

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Daniel Craig and Léa Seydoux as James Bond and Dr. Madeleine Swann, respectively, in Spectre (2015).

Daniel Craig and Léa Seydoux as James Bond and Dr. Madeleine Swann, respectively, in Spectre (2015).

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, British government agent

Morocco, November 2015

Film: Spectre
Release Date: October 25, 2015
Director: Sam Mendes
Costume Designer: Jany Temime

Background

The 00-7th of September means BAMF Style’s first post on Spectre, the 24th and most recent entry into the cinematic James Bond canon. As this was the most requested Spectre content by far, I’ve allowed popular demand to dictate the brown Brunello Cucinelli jacket and trousers that Bond wears in Morocco to be the focus of this inaugural post.

007 spends much of Spectre traversing Europe in search of the shadowy figurehead from his past that now leads the terrorist organization Spectre. With the companionship of Dr. Madeleine Swann (Léa Seydoux), Bond tracks the elusive Franz Oberhauser to a remote part of Morocco and allows himself to fall into the hands of his old nemesis.

What’d He Wear?

It’s a nice touch of verisimilitude to see even James Bond, arguably the most well-outfitted man in the world, mixing elements of his casual and formal attire to fit his surroundings. While traveling through Morocco in Spectre, Bond makes good use of a pair of Brunello Cucinelli khaki chinos and J. Crew suede boots, wearing them both casually with a Matchless suede blouson jacket and more formally with a linen jacket and tie.

This outfit incorporates brands favored by both James Bond and Daniel Craig. While 007 has been sporting Tom Ford on screen since Quantum of Solace in 2008, Spectre marks the first known clothing from Brunello Cucinelli, a brand that the actor has been known to wear in real life. Bond wears Brunello Cucinelli jacket, trousers, and belt with a Tom Ford shirt and tie while he and Madeleine wait for Blofeld’s driver to pick them up.

Bond is able to wait patiently in the heat by dressing comfortably in a lightweight linen blend jacket.

Bond is able to wait patiently in the heat by dressing comfortably in a lightweight linen blend jacket.

Bond wears a light brown single-breasted Brunello Cucinelli jacket that Bond sartorial blogger Matt Spaiser has identified as “a blend of 51% wool, 41% linen and 8% silk” on his blog, The Suits of James Bond. Unlike many of Bond’s tailored jackets, there is very little in the way of structure of padding, sacrificing formality for comfort in the warm desert climate. It also is Bond’s only Spectre jacket cut with double vents, allowing more air to pass through and also giving 007 a better opportunity to reach for his holstered Walther PPK if the need arises.

The jacket has a three-button front, although the top button is often rolled over by the lapels. The lapels are very unorthodox from the notches themselves to the buttonhole. While buttonholes are mostly decorative or used strictly for carnations, this jacket’s keyhole-cut buttonhole is actually functional as evident by the small button under the right side of the collar. The top of each lapel notch slightly flairs out like a cran necker or “fishmouth” lapel.

Bond's Brunello Cucinelli jacket features a functioning buttonhole on the left lapel for the small button under the right collar.

Bond’s Brunello Cucinelli jacket features a functioning buttonhole on the left lapel for the small button under the right collar.

Very close edge-stitching is visible on the lapels, pocket flaps, and around the un-roped sleeveheads. The jacket has a welted breast pocket and flapped hip pockets that both slant slightly toward the back. As the jacket flaps around in the desert wind, the quarter lining and the tan-jetted inside breast pockets are also seen. There are four buttons at the end of each cuff.

Bond greets his new host captor.

Bond greets his new host captor with a mutual decorum that hasn’t been seen to such a polite degree since Dr. No.

In addition to the aforementioned entry on The Suits of James Bond, more information about this jacket and outfit can also be found at James Bond Lifestyle, which provides Brunello Cucinelli’s product number for the jacket (MH4157BR6 C1011) and the trousers (M067DF1050 C1581).

Bond’s Brunello Cucinelli khaki chinos are only slightly lighter than the brown jacket, perhaps not enough of a contrast to justify wearing both together; a stone gray pair of trousers may have been a wiser option. These flat front, low rise trousers are constructed from aged 100% cotton gabardine. They have six belt loops around the waist and a pointed-tab that extends over the top of the fly to close on a single button. Through the loops, he also wears a Brunello Cucinelli brown woven leather belt, which James Bond Lifestyle identified as product number MAUIB324 C4001. Unlike some fully-braided leather belts, this one has a solid tab with holes for the polished gold buckle’s single prong.

Bond looks pretty smug for a guy who's walking (or riding) straight into a trap set by the world's most devious megalomaniac.

Bond looks pretty smug for a guy who’s walking (or riding) straight into a trap set by the world’s most devious megalomaniac.

The trousers have slightly slanted side pockets and button-through jetted back pockets. They have a very slim, straight leg fit down to the plain-hemmed bottoms, which are worn rolled-up – not professionally cuffed, mind you. These are the same trousers he wore earlier with the Matchless suede blouson jacket. While the decision to roll up his bottoms may look silly, this appears to be more of a Brunello Cucinelli style as many trousers from the brand’s current site lineup appear to have rolled bottoms, including these cotton gabardine slim fit trousers that appear to be the spiritual successor to the Aged Gabardine Chinos worn by Craig in Spectre.

Spectre continued the Tom Ford relationship that began during Daniel Craig’s tenure as Bond in Quantum of Solace, although this is one of the few on-screen outfits that does not include a Tom Ford tailored suit or jacket; the only Tom Ford reflected in this outfit is the shirt and tie. Bond wears a white cotton poplin shirt with a point collar, narrow front placket, and 2-button turnback or “cocktail” cuffs. Tom Ford calls these the “Dr. No cuff” in homage to the same rounded cocktail cuffs that Sean Connery wore in his first outings as 007.

Bond's Tom Ford shirt gets plenty of screen time in the Moroccan desert when the heat forces him to take off his jacket or when the strong winds blow his jacket and tie around.

Bond’s Tom Ford shirt gets plenty of screen time in the Moroccan desert when the heat forces him to take off his jacket or when the strong winds blow his jacket and tie around.

Bond’s Tom Ford tie is a brown silk knit with a wide, pointed tip that ends a few inches above the waistband of his low-rise trousers. Many 007 fans are having a surprisingly hard time finding a similar tie to the one Craig wore on screen, as discussed at the ajb007.co.uk forums.

The knit tie nicely follows the informality of the outfit while still keeping it classy.

The knit tie nicely follows the informality of the outfit while still keeping it classy.

Bond wears a pair of tan J. Crew “Kenton” suede ankle boots, item A9651. It should be noted that Bond wears the plain-toe version, not the apron-toe “Kenton Pacer” boots. These have five eyelets through open-laced grommets with three sets brass speed hooks above them. J. Crew describes them as “modeled after an old-fashioned work boot but updated with an EVA (fancy talk for a high-tech foam) sole and a soft suede body.” They are finished with a Goodyear welt that allows easy resoling as needed.

The boots don't receive much screen time during this sequence, but a behind-the-scenes shot of Seydoux and Craig reinforces that they are indeed the same J. Crew boots (inset) as he wore earlier with the Matchless jacket.

The boots don’t receive much screen time during this sequence, but a behind-the-scenes shot of Seydoux and Craig reinforces that they are indeed the same J. Crew boots (inset) as he wore earlier with the Matchless jacket.

Once again, Bond uses a cognac-colored suede Vega IB333 inside-the-waistband holster for his Walther PPK. He had previously used the same model in Skyfall and a larger version for his Walther P99 in Casino Royale. More information about the Vega holster can be found at James Bond Lifestyle.

This would have been a good time to bring back the "farewell to arms" bit from License to Kill if only there was a Hemingway reference in this scene too.

This would have been a good time to bring back the “farewell to arms” bit from License to Kill if only there was a Hemingway reference in this scene too.

The Omega Seamaster 300 SPECTRE Limited Edition, introduced as a tie-in with the release of Spectre in 2015.

The Omega Seamaster 300 SPECTRE Limited Edition, introduced as a tie-in with the release of Spectre in 2015.

Much ado was made over 007’s wristwatch in Spectre as Omega rolled out its cross-promotional Omega Seamaster 300 SPECTRE Limited Edition on a NATO strap for the film’s release. The watch, reference 233.32.41.21.01.001, has a stainless steel 41mm case and is powered by the revolutionary and magnetic-resistant Omega Master Co-Axial calibre 8400 movement. The black dial has a broad arrow hour hand and the rare “lollipop” seconds hand as well as a “0” replacing a the “12” on the bezel. The five-striped NATO strap has black and gray stripes with a stainless Omega-branded buckle. James Bond Lifestyle notes that this was the first time that 007’s actual on-screen watch was marketed to audiences, and it is still featured prominently on the Omega site.

Bond wears a pair of Tom Ford Henry Vintage Wayfarer FT0248 sunglasses that, despite their name, are more of a browline style than the traditional “wayfarer”. Available in black, vintage Havana, and dark Havana, Bond wears the “dark Havana” style – color code 52A – with acetate frames, smoke-colored lenses, and gunmetal inserts along the bottom rim and “T”-branded temples. They are still available from the Tom Ford site for $405, although some scavengers may have better luck scouring Amazon. More information is available on James Bond Lifestyle.

Bond spies a '48 Rolls through his Tom Ford shades.

Bond spies a ’48 Rolls through his Tom Ford shades.

For more about this outfit and its accessories, check out James Bond Lifestyle’s portal.

Whether it was intentional or not, this Spectre outfit certainly evokes the brown hacking jacket and cavalry twill trousers that Sean Connery wore in Goldfinger while tracking his nemesis through the Austrian countryside.

Sean Connery in Goldfinger (1964) and Daniel Craig in Spectre (2015), both sporting brown odd jackets and trousers with white dress shirts, brown knit ties, and - unseen - brown suede boots.

Sean Connery in Goldfinger (1964) and Daniel Craig in Spectre (2015), both sporting brown odd jackets and trousers with white dress shirts, brown knit ties, and – unseen – brown suede boots.

Both outfits involve sporty jackets and trousers in slightly differing shades of brown, white shirts, brown knit ties, and brown sueded boots. Both scenes even prominently feature classic Rolls-Royces owned by the villains!

Madeleine Swann: What’s that?
James Bond: That is a 1948 Rolls Royce Silver Wraith.

Go Big or Go Home

…and pack it all in a Globe-Trotter Original brown suitcase like 007 carries in Morocco! Identified by James Bond Lifestyle, the Globe-Trotter “Original” is available in brown with brown corners with traditional vulcanized fiberboard corners like Bond carries as well as a navy version with black corners.

How to Get the Look

James Bond (Daniel Craig) checks his Walther PPK in Spectre (2015).

James Bond (Daniel Craig) checks his Walther PPK in Spectre (2015).

With the help of designers like Brunello Cucinelli and Tom Ford, Bond finds the sartorial intersection of comfort, class, and cool while waiting in the hot Moroccan desert.

  • Light brown wool-linen-silk blend Brunello Cucinelli single-breasted 3-button jacket with notch lapels (with under-collar button through functioning keyhole-cut lapel buttonhole), welted breast pocket, slanted flapped hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and double vents
  • White poplin Tom Ford dress shirt with point collar, narrow front placket, and 2-button turnback/cocktail cuffs
  • Brown knit silk Tom Ford tie
  • Khaki cotton gabardine flat front, low rise, straight leg chinos with six belt loops, pointed waistband tab, slanted side pockets, button-through jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Brown woven leather Brunello Cucinelli tab-ended belt with polished gold rectangular single-claw buckle
  • Vega IB333 cognac-colored suede IWB holster, for Walther PPK
  • Tan sueded leather J. Crew “Kenton” 5-eyelet, 3-hook plain-toe ankle boots with brick red EVA soles
  • socks
  • Tom Ford “Henry Vintage Wayfarer” FT0248 acetate-framed browline sunglasses with smoke lenses and gunmetal rims
  • Omega Seamaster 300 SPECTRE Limited Edition (233.32.41.21.01.001) stainless steel wristwatch with black dial (and “lollipop” seconds hand) on black-and-gray striped NATO strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.


Spectre – Blue Check Suit for Day of the Dead

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Daniel Craig as James Bond in Spectre (2015).

Daniel Craig as James Bond in Spectre (2015).

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, British government agent

Mexico City, November 2015

Film: Spectre
Release Date: October 25, 2015
Director: Sam Mendes
Costume Designer: Jany Temime

Background

Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) is a Mexican public holiday to remember and support the spiritual journey of deceased friends and family. This year, as it did last year when Bond “attended”, the multi-day celebration begins on November 1 and ends tomorrow, November 2.

I’ve received several requests to cover the outfit that James Bond wears during the Día de Muertos celebration in Mexico City, and I would like to also direct readers to the excellent analysis of this suit featured at Matt Spaiser’s site The Suits of James Bond, where Matt also developed an excellent digital reconstruction of the suiting that can’t be missed.

What’d He Wear?

Spectre kicks off the Bond franchise’s third consecutive collaboration with Tom Ford by outfitting Daniel Craig head-to-toe – or at least head-to-ankle – in new Tom Ford duds. This is a more complex take on the blue suit, white shirt, and blue tie look that 007 would later wear when confronting Blofeld in Morocco.

Bond ostensibly removes his black Día de Muertos costume to reveal a blue and black glen check Tom Ford “O’Connor” wool suit with a bold light blue windowpane overcheck, an attractive update of the overchecked glen plaid suiting that was popularized by Edward VIII when he held the Prince of Wales title in the 1920s and 1930s. Additional information and photos can be found at James Bond Lifestyle.

SPECTRE

Daniel Craig’s blue eyes and even the blue “eye” of his weapon’s laser sight are nicely called out by the light blue overcheck of his blue and black Prince of Wales check suit.

The single-breasted jacket has a 3-roll-2 medium stance of blue horn buttons, and Bond keeps the middle button fastened throughout the scene. The narrow notch lapels – with a double-stitched silk buttonhole through the left lapel – roll down to the center button, showing only two buttons when the jacket is closed.

Discarded Day of the Dead costume in hand, Bond abandons his surprised companion.

Discarded Day of the Dead costume in hand, Bond abandons his surprised companion.

Bond’s suit jacket is tailored to reflect the tight fit characteristic of Temime’s work in Skyfall and Spectre with a lean chest, suppressed waist, and short length. Since Craig keeps the jacket buttoned, it looks especially uncomfortable during the heavy movement of his stunt scenes when it strongly pulls at his waist, pulling apart the jacket skirts to expose a bright white shirt triangle above the low rise of the trousers.

Bond looks even more visibly uncomfortable than a person would after tumbling off of a crumbling building. Maybe let your torso breathe a bit there, bud. (Also note the Dainite studded soles of his derby shoes.)

Bond looks even more visibly uncomfortable than a person would after tumbling off of a crumbling building. Maybe let your torso breathe a bit there, bud. (Also note the Dainite studded soles of his derby shoes.)

The suit jacket has straight and narrow padded shoulders with roped sleeveheads. The sleeves end with functioning 4-button cuffs, and Craig rakishly keeps the last button – positioned with the longest buttonhole – unfastened. There is a single vent in the back.

Bond's dapper approach to assassination.

Bond’s dapper approach to assassination.

The flapped hip pockets slant backward. The gently curved breast pocket is a “barchetta” pocket, an Italian moniker evoking the pocket’s resemblance to a small boat. The barchetta pocket has Neapolitan origins but found its way onto prominent Americans of the early 20th century from Theodore Roosevelt to F. Scott Fitzgerald, as detailed in this elegant tribute from No Man Walks Alone. Bond folds a white linen handkerchief into his pocket.

SPECTRE

“Daniel Craig?! He looks like an upset baby.” – Jimmy on You’re the Worst.

The matching suit trousers have a medium-low rise and flat front that gets plenty of screen time due to the many stunt sequences in this scene. The waistband is fitted with a wide extended tab in the front, a short split in the back, and a adjuster on each side that slides a strip of fabric through a small buckle. Since there’s no belt, Bond doesn’t wear his IWB holster.

The side pockets follow the curve of the trouser seam to the front, and the jetted back pockets each close through a button. The trousers are fitted closely through the straight legs down to the cuffed bottoms which break high over his shoes.

spectre2-cl2-trou

Bond’s white cotton poplin dress shirt is also by Tom Ford. It has a point collar, front placket, and back side darts that pull in the shirt to compliment the close-fitting suit.

Perhaps once again forgetting his role as a secret agent, Bond fastens the shirt’s squared double cuffs with a pair of round silver monogrammed Tom Ford cuff links that have “JB” raised in silver over the blue face. Brass models of these 20mm cuff links can be purchased from Amazon.

Bond grapples with a villainous helicopter pilot, flashing both his rakishly unbuttoned suit sleeves and his monogrammed cuff links. Not exactly flying under the radar, 007.

Bond grapples with a villainous helicopter pilot, flashing both his rakishly unbuttoned suit sleeves and his monogrammed cuff links. Not exactly flying under the radar, 007.

Many outfits in Spectre evoked the limited color palette seen in the Connery era with ties chosen to match or reflect the suit and paired with white dress shirts, such as both blue suits, the black funeral suit, and the brown desert outfit. This outfit follows that system with a blue silk repp tie from Tom Ford.

Craig channels Connery despite making a Moore/Dalton/Brosnan-style escape in a commandeered aircraft. Worlds collide!

Craig channels Connery despite making a Moore/Dalton/Brosnan-style escape in a commandeered aircraft. Worlds collide!

Daniel Craig’s Bond began wearing Crockett & Jones shoes in Skyfall and Spectre. In this scene, he wears the Crockett & Jones “Norwich” derby shoes (or bluchers) in black calf leather with five lace eyelets, a straight toe cap, and Dainite studded rubber soles. More information can be found at James Bond Lifestyle or the Crockett & Jones site. Bond somewhat disappointingly wears them with black dress socks as the short break of the trousers would have made this a better opportunity to continue the leg line with dark blue socks; perhaps he didn’t bother to change the socks from his all-black Day of the Dead ensemble.

SPECTRE

Situations like this are when one is grateful for a solid, non-slip sole on their shoe like the Dainite rubber soles on Bond’s C&J Norwich derbies.

Daniel Craig has worn exclusively Omega watches during his tenure as James Bond, and his latest dress chronometer gets a fine debut in Spectre‘s opening sequence. The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Master Co-Axial 231.10.42.21.03.003 was described by Omega itself as a “classic yet robust timepiece [that] represents a tribute to Omega’s rich maritime heritage,” making it the perfect choice for Commander Bond. The stainless steel watch has a 41.5mm case, presented on a a stainless steel bracelet. The sun-brushed, lacquered blue dial “recalls the wooden decks of luxury sailboats,” according to Omega, decorated with the Teak Concept pattern and embellished with a date window positioned at 3:00. The watch’s Omega Master Co-Axial calibre 8500 movement, visible through the transparent caseback, is resistant to magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss.

You can learn more about this Omega watch and the others in the Bond series at James Bond Lifestyle. Similar watches can be found at Amazon, if you’re in the market for a Bond-style Omega.

After Plan A fails, Bond is forced to develop Plan B: jumping into a helicopter. Luckily, his trusty Omega can withstand it all.

After Plan A fails, Bond is forced to develop Plan B: jumping into a helicopter. Luckily, his trusty Omega can withstand it all.

For more about this outfit and its accessories, check out James Bond Lifestyle’s portal. If you want to read more about the Day of the Dead costume that Bond initially wore over this suit, read The Suits of James Bond’s excellent post from yesterday.

How to Get the Lookspectre2-crop

Daniel Craig’s 007 proves that a limited color palette doesn’t mean boring and that a classic suiting pattern doesn’t mean outdated.

  • Blue and black Prince of Wales glen plaid wool suit with light blue windowpane overcheck (Tom Ford “O’Connor”), consisting of:
    • Single-breasted 3-roll-2 button suit jacket with narrow notch lapels, curved “barchetta” breast pocket, slanted flapped hip pockets, 4-button functional cuffs, and single vent
    • Flat front medium-low rise trousers with extended front waist tab, slide-buckle side adjusters, curved on-seam side pockets, button-through jetted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs with short break
  • White cotton poplin Tom Ford dress shirt with point collar, front placket, back side darts, and double/French cuffs
  • Blue repp silk Tom Ford tie
  • Round silver custom Tom Ford cuff links with silver “JB” monogram raised from blue enamel face
  • Black calf Crockett & Jones “Norwich” 5-eyelet cap-toe derby shoes with Dainite studded rubber soles
  • Black dress socks
  • Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Master Co-Axial (231.10.42.21.03.003) stainless steel wristwatch with lacquered blue dial (with 3:00 date window) on stainless steel link bracelet

Iconic Alternatives has a great rundown of affordable options for gentlemen interested in channeling Bond’s made-to-measure Tom Ford look.

The Gun

James Bond arms himself for his unauthorized assassination mission with a Glock 17 fitted into a FAB Defense KPOS Carbine Conversion kit as confirmed on IMFDB. This kit allows the user to take a full-size semi-automatic pistol – preferably a third or fourth generation Glock but the site also describes two allowable SIG Sauer models – and transform it into a PDW (Personal Defense Weapon).

Bond fits his converted Glock with a suppressor and blue laser sight.

Bond takes aim.

Bond takes aim.

More information about the FAB Defense conversion kit can be found at their site.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Bottoms up.


Iconic Alternatives – 5 Favorite Bond Looks

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I’m honored to have been contributed to an article posted today at Iconic Alternatives, featuring my top five favorite outfits from the James Bond 007 series. Iconic Alternatives did all the hard work of tracking down fashionable and affordable options of suits, formalwear, and casual wear worn by Sean Connery, Roger Moore, and Daniel Craig in From Russia With Love, Goldfinger, The Man with the Golden Gun, Casino Royale, and Skyfall.

Check it out here if you want to find out my five favorite outfits from the Bond series and affordable alternatives as researched by the pros at Iconic Alternatives. The entire site is a great resource for tracking down individual items to help you dress like the world’s sharpest secret agent.

Image credit: Iconic Alternatives

Image credit: Iconic Alternatives

Did I include any of your favorite James Bond outfits? Feel free to share your favorites or clothing that you’ve found on your own that reflects 007!


Bond’s Peacoat in Casino Royale

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Daniel Craig as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006)

Daniel Craig as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006)

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, British government agent

Prague, Winter 2006

Film: Casino Royale
Release Date: November 14, 2006
Director: Martin Campbell
Costume Designer: Lindy Hemming

Background

For the first 00-7th of the new year, I want to recall the first on screen appearance of Daniel Craig’s James Bond.

Casino Royale begins like no official Bond film has before it – in black-and-white! A much older man (Malcolm Sinclair) – clearly a spy but certainly not Bond – covertly boards an office elevator during a snowy evening in Prague. As the man steps into his darkened office, we immediately learn that his name is Dryden and that he’s been betraying M by selling secrets… thanks to James Bond, sitting in the shadows.

A seasoned MI6 pro, Dryden subtly opens his drawer to reveal his own pistol while easing in behind his desk.

Dryden: If the theatrics are supposed to scare me, you have the wrong man, Bond. If M was so sure that I was bent, she’d have sent a 00. Benefits of being section chief, I’d know if anyone had been promoted to 00 status, wouldn’t I? Your file shows no kills, and it takes…
Bond: Two.

This is straight from Ian Fleming’s 1953 novel, where Bond described his first two kills – a Japanese spy and a Norwegian double agent – that led to him receiving 00 status.

Dryden whips up his pistol (a 9mm Star Ultrastar, if you’re curious) and bids farewell to Bond – “Shame… we barely got to know each other…” – but the pistol clicks empty. Holding back a wink and a smile, Bond raises the Star’s magazine:

I know where you keep your gun. Suppose that’s something.

Dryden resigns himself to his fate and determines that he will die with dignity, helping Bond through the moral entanglement that comes with a 00’s second kill. Of course, this is a new Bond and not one that concerns himself with his own feelings after beating a man to death in a dirty bathroom.

Dryden: Made you feel it, did he? Well, you needn’t worry. The second is-
Bond: (shoots him) Yes… considerably

What’d He Wear?

Our introduction to 007 in Casino Royale uses his costume to firmly establish both the character’s brash and tough youthfulness while evoking his naval background with a timeless navy pea coat layered over a cardigan and t-shirt. This is the first time we see James Bond wearing a traditional pea coat, although certainly not the last as the enduringly popular Billy Reid coat from Skyfall proved.

This pea coat is classic in every sense from its dark navy blue wool melton construction to its double-breasted layout. The eight front buttons are dark horn rather than the traditional anchor-decorated plastic, and the wide Ulster collar has a small metal throat latch that goes unused as Bond wears the front of the jacket totally open.

Though his non-00 status doesn't quite intimidate Dryden, Bond's dark layers add a menacing and mysterious appearance.

Though his non-00 status doesn’t quite intimidate Dryden, Bond’s dark layers add a menacing and mysterious appearance.

Although the finished film is presented in grayscale, promotional photos inform the colors of the garments worn on screen. The heavy ribbed knit cardigan that Bond wears under his pea coat is charcoal with a tall standing collar that would have made him the toast of Transylvania. The cardigan has five large black plastic buttons – each reinforced on a stitched square – up the placket from the ribbed hem to the neck of his ribbed collar, which is left open to flap over his pea collar. The sleeves are cuffed back over his wrists, best seen when he raises his pistol to shoot.

More details can be seen in a photo posted by user Kittlemeier on a AJB007.co.uk forum where he identified the garment as one also worn by Daniel Craig in real life. The heavy ribbing on the collar, hem, and cuffs are seen well in this photo, as well as the square stitching that reinforces the buttons. The sweater also has set-in sleeves and two patch pockets on the hip with ribbed open tips that each slant slightly back.

CASINO ROYALE

Craig later wears another dark cardigan ensemble when standing on his hotel balcony with Mathis, and I imagine that oufit uses the same base layer of dark gray t-shirt, gray trousers, and black shoes under a different cardigan. The fitted cotton t-shirt is likely the same dark gray t-shirt seen in this scene, and it is almost certainly one of the many Sunspel shirts that Craig wore in Casino Royale.

A full-color promotional photo showcases the colors of Bond's assassination attire.

A full-color promotional photo showcases the colors of Bond’s assassination attire.

Bond likely also wore the same lower half of this outfit when “visiting” M in her London flat. If so, his wool flat front trousers are a black-and-white glen urquhart check with a subtle light blue plaid overcheck. I surmised in my earlier post that these trousers may be from Ted Baker. He doesn’t appear to be wearing his Vega IWB holster clipped to his belt – and, in fact, may not be wearing a belt at all – since he places his entire Walther P99 (suppressor attached!) inside his jacket before leaving Dryden’s office.

The bottoms of the trousers are finished with cuffs with a short, high break that shows off his black socks and black leather shoes, likely the same black calf John Lobb “Romsey” two-eyelet chukkas that he wears in M’s flat.

Bond's "theatrics" of a confrontation from the shadows may not scare Dryden initially, but the guy sure starts shitting his pants when he realizes his gun isn't loaded.

Bond’s “theatrics” of a confrontation from the shadows may not scare Dryden initially, but the guy sure starts shitting his pants when he realizes his gun isn’t loaded.

Bond’s watch remains unseen under the sleeves of his jacket and cardigan, but he is likely wearing the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 that he wore in all of his early Casino Royale scenes… unless it was given to him after this as a “Congrats-on-your-second-kill-to-become-a-oo” gift.

How to Get the Look

Daniel Craig’s 007 injects youth into an outfit centered around the stylish but centuries-old pea coat.

  • Dark navy blue wool melton double-breasted 8-button pea coat with wide Ulster collar and side pockets
  • Charcoal ribbed knit cardigan sweater with tall standing collar, 5-button front, and slanted-open patch pockets
  • Dark gray fitted cotton t-shirt
  • Black-and-white glen urquhart check (with light blue plaid overcheck) wool flat front trousers with on-seam side pockets and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black calf John Lobb “Romsey” two-eyelet chukka boots
  • Black socks
  • Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 with stainless steel case and black dial/bezel on a large black rubber strap

The Gun

Casino Royale rebooted the 007 franchise by going back to the very first novel as roots, but we don’t find James Bond carrying his traditional Walther PPK (or, thankfully, the anemic .25-caliber Beretta that Fleming had originally given him in Casino Royale.)

Instead, Craig’s Bond maintains his armament as established by Pierce Brosnan in 1997’s Tomorrow Never Dies – a Walther P99 semi-automatic pistol, chambered in 9x19mm Parabellum. Given the context of the scene, a covert assassination in an office building, Bond’s use of a suppressor is certainly appropriate.

Bond decocks his P99 after shooting Dryden.

“Yes… considerably.” Bond decocks his P99 after shooting Dryden.

Although the P99 is technically his primary weapon throughout Casino Royale, he does appear to be using a Walther PPK during the intercut sequence that shows him killing Dryden’s contact, the traitorous Fisher. Craig’s Bond would adopt the PPK as his sidearm of choice, without explanation, in the next film, Quantum of Solace.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

M doesn’t mind you earning a little money on the side, Dryden. She’d just prefer it if it wasn’t selling secrets.


Casino Royale: Bond’s Floral Printed Shirt in Madagascar

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Daniel Craig as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006)

Daniel Craig as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006)

Vitals

Daniel Craig as James Bond, swaggering and brash British government agent

Madagascar, July 2006

Film: Casino Royale
Release Date: November 14, 2006
Director: Martin Campbell
Costume Designer: Lindy Hemming

Background

To celebrate Daniel Craig’s 49th birthday today, BAMF Style is looking back to his “birth” in the Bond franchise in Casino Royale, exploring the scrappy summer attire during the dangerous first mission that Craig’s Bond took as a 00 agent.

After the globe-trotting double kills that led to James Bond’s eligibility for 00 status, Bond finds himself in Madagascar, working with bright-eyed and bushy-tailed MI6 agent named Carter (Joseph Millson) as they conduct surveillance on a bombmaker named Mollaka. The eager Carter’s inability to fit in compromises their identities, and Bond is forced to chase after Mollaka while Carter languishes in a mongoose pit.

Unfortunately for 007, Mollaka is played by French freerunner Sébastien Foucan, a parkour pioneer who sees the various cranes, walls, and heights as no obstruction to his getaway. Unfortunately for Mollaka, this Bond doesn’t rely on an arched eyebrow or a well-timed witticism to get the job done…this Bond runs through walls, dammit!

Daniel Craig, Professional Wallbuster.

Daniel Craig, Professional Wallbuster.

The chase leads to an African embassy, where Bond storms in, steals the ambassador’s pistol, and “violated the only absolutely inviolate rule of international relationships” by killing Mollaka when cornered.

The pre-credits sequence of 007 coolly killing a double agent while reclining in the man’s office was pure classic Bond, but this… this was something we haven’t seen before.

Daniel Craig on set.

Daniel Craig on set.

What’d He Wear?

Bond’s Madagascar outfit has received plenty of criticism from fans used to seeing their favorite agent in expensive tailored suits or subdued, fitted casual wear. While I agree that this isn’t the first ensemble I’d pull out of my closet for an evening out, I think Bond’s choice here indicates the franchise’s renewed focus on realism. Casino Royale was on the heels of four Brosnan films where our hero was rarely more informal than a Brioni suit and tie; indeed, his only deviation from a suit in The World is Not Enough was a brown skiing outfit.

In Madagascar, Bond and Carter are surveilling Mollaka at a public fight between a mongoose and a cobra…surrounded by the kind of people who would bet on a fight between a mongoose and a cobra. Even a casual polo and jeans would have immediately pegged Bond as an outsider, compromising the mission before it would even begin. If Mollaka could be tipped off by Carter touching his earpiece, he would surely take notice of a clean-cut Englishman sporting clean, tailored clothing rather than the considerably unfashionable garb here that ultimately serves its purpose.

Bond’s floral-printed cotton sport shirt is short-sleeved with short button tabs at the end of each sleeve to adjust the fit over his biceps as needed. The edge-stitched point collar is fashionably large for 2006, although that may be all that one could call truly “fashionable” about the shirt. The shirt also has a breast pocket on the left and a short vent on each side of the straight hem.

The shirt has seven white buttons down the front placket, but Bond only wears the third button up from the bottom fastened. This may be a sloppy look, but it keeps him airy in the warm climate while preventing the shirt from flapping about too much and impeding his movement during his parkour pursuit.

The floral print consists of abstract light gray ferns on a beige ground, overlaid with sketched brick red floral designs.

Just as the Casino Royale Bond doesn't give a damn if his martini is shaken or stirred, he couldn't care less what you think about his shirt.

Just as the Casino Royale Bond doesn’t give a damn if his martini is shaken or stirred, he couldn’t care less what you think about his shirt.

The original shirt was made by Academy Costumes in London, according to the digital portfolio on their site. Although it was custom made for the product, Bond fans have no need to fret… Iconic Alternatives has some excellent suggestions for channeling the shirt, including Magnoli Clothiers’ spot-on replica “Madagascar Shirt”, priced at $165.

Bond’s decision to wear a visible undershirt also seems to divide fans watching with a sartorial eye, but it strikes me as a practical decision to catch the abundance of sweat that a situation like this would create. For better or worse, the t-shirt also evokes Bond’s youth and athleticism that have yet to be refined as his character matures.

The fitted t-shirt is light gray heathered cotton with a wide crew neck and very short fitted sleeves with multi-striped bands. The stripes, seen only in set photos since Bond wears his shirt covering them throughout the scene, consist of a series of four bright red stripes in the center, bordered on the top and bottom by a maroon stripe, a gap, and then a thinner maroon stripe. Even if they do go unseen, the colored bands nicely call out the colors in his tropical shirt.

Daniel Craig on set, showing off lesser seen elements of his Madagascar outfit like the t-shirt's striped sleeves, his web belt, and beige socks.

Daniel Craig on set, showing off lesser seen elements of his Madagascar outfit like the t-shirt’s striped sleeves, his web belt, and beige socks.

According to The Undershirt Guy, sourcing images from The Bond Experience, it’s reasonable to speculate that Daniel Craig was wearing a Diesel brand t-shirt for these scenes. Unseen in the film, the back yoke is printed with a stylized black “777” crowned in an ornate black design. The “lucky 777” imagery might be a little too on-the-nose for Casino Royale, but credit is due to the shirt detectives for doing this homework!

Magnoli again comes to the rescue, this time with a $45 replica “Madagascar T Shirt” that nails everything from the fit to the color of the distinctive sleeve bands. Magnoli describes its replica as having “a decorative print design on the upper back” to reflect the Diesel shirt.

Bond’s tan linen trousers are one of the simplest elements of the outfit. The loose fit is ideal for avoiding sticky sweat in Madagascar’s warm tropical climate. These pants have a very casual drawstring waist rather than belt loops or side adjusters and two back patch pockets.

Finish him!

Bond’s five star frog splash technique could use some work…

A more refined Bond might have opted for chinos or cream jeans similar to the ones he would later wear in the Bahamas or in Haiti during Quantum of Solace, both appropriate for the climate and context of this scene.

Many retailers like H&M offer similar and affordable ultra-casual linen pants like this pair in the summer, just in time to provide the perfect lightweight layer for a trip to the beach. Cubavera also offers an affordable linen/rayon blend designed more for a day in paradise than a day chasing terrorists.

The unstructured, lightweight trouser waistband would provide little of the needed support for Bond to holster his 22-ounce Walther P99, so he wears a wide black web belt with a flat steel slider-style buckle, fastened tightly enough around his waist to secure the holster in place despite not fitting in congress with his trousers. Perhaps the slipping belt taught 007 a lesson about wearing better-fitted trousers in the future…

The production swapped in a rubber Walther P99 replica prop for scenes like this that could have severely damaged the blank-firing P99.

The production swapped in a rubber Walther P99 replica prop for scenes like this that could have severely damaged the blank-firing P99.

This is the first appearance of Bond’s “cognac” brown suede Vega IB339 holster, a right-hand-draw IWB holster meant to be worn inside the waistband (in case you couldn’t tell what IWB stood for…) In fact, Casino Royale marks the cinematic Bond’s first use of any holster except the variety of shoulder rigs that followed him from the first few books through Dr. No up to Die Another Day. You can read more about the Vega IWB holsters worn by Craig’s 007 at James Bond Lifestyle.

A modest gentleman like Bond tends to keep his choice of undergarments an onscreen mystery, but this more brazen, unpolished 007 chasing down a terrorist on a hot summer day is prone to slipping up. Or, at least, his trousers are prone to slipping down a bit, revealing what appears to be white cotton underwear.

Nothing kills a badass action scene like plumber's crack. Props to Bond for not going commando despite the heat.

Nothing kills a badass action scene like plumber’s crack. Props to Bond for not going commando despite the heat.

Apropos his ostensible cover in Madagascar, most of Bond’s clothing looks like he could’ve cobbled it together from a bargain bin. However, he put some investment into his footwear, as one should during a set-piece that calls for extensive running and jumping. Bond clearly wears a pair of Converse Jack Purcell OTR shoes in a shade of russet brown leather that Converse calls “chocolate and paprika”, worn with beige socks.

The shoes are an intriguing cross between ankle boots and the active-focused sneakers that Converse is known for, with the “OTR” designation standing for “On the Road”. The soles are black rubber, including the rubber toe bumper and external heel cup, which the wardrobe team seemingly modified to conceal orange accents. They lace up with brown laces through eight brass eyelets, extending down onto toe cap for a narrower fit over the bridge.

More information and helpful reviews can be found at James Bond Lifestyle, where “Brendan” commented: “They’re a bit warm for the summer (Craig must have been dying in his scenes) and require a bit of breaking in.” The eagle-eyed team at Iconic Alternatives has identified several pairs of brown leather ankle boots and sneakers that reflect the look and spirit of Craig’s Converse footwear from the Madagascar sequence, and I highly recommend checking out their suggestions for channeling this now-discontinued shoe.

Bond may typically wear Crockett & Jones, but there are few shoes better for kicking ass (and kicking levers) on a hot, dusty construction site than tried-and-true Converses.

Bond may typically wear Crockett & Jones, but there are few shoes better for kicking ass (and kicking levers) on a hot, dusty construction site than tried-and-true Converses.

Bond may have been concerned about Carter blowing their cover, but his decision to wear a big, brand new Omega wristwatch would have also drawn some suspicious eyes. Through these early, action-oriented scenes of Casino Royale, Daniel Craig wears an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 chronometer on a black rubber strap, a sportier alternative to the blue-dialed Seamaster Professional that he would wear with his suits and formalwear.

Bond’s Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean has a 45.5mm stainless steel case, black bezel, and a black dial under domed anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The actual watch worn by Craig, no. 81084716, was auctioned by Antiquorum in April 2007, fetching $213,000.

007

On his definitive blog exploring clothing of the Bond films (and beyond), The Suits of James Bond, blogger Matt Spaiser offers his own takes on this outfit.

How to Get the Look

cr3af-cropIn a final defense of this outfit, this is James Bond’s first mission as a 00-agent. He’s a rough and tough Bond who’s up for the job, not yet mastering the balance between sophisticated sartorialism and carrying out his tasks as his style continues to evolve. Most importantly, Daniel Craig is able to pull it off!

  • Gray-and-red-on-beige floral-printed cotton sport shirt with large edge-stitched point collar, front placket, breast pocket, straight hem with side vents, and button-tab adjustable short sleeves
  • Light gray melange cotton crew-neck short-sleeve t-shirt with red multi-striped arm bands
  • Tan linen loose-fitting trousers with drawstring, back patch pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black web belt with flat steel slider buckle
  • Converse Jack Purcell “OTR” brown leather ankle boot-sneakers with eight brass eyelets and black rubber soles
  • Beige socks
  • White cotton underwear
  • Vega IB339 suede cognac IWB holster for Walther P99 pistol
  • Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Size” 2900.50.91 on a large black rubber strap

Iconic Alternatives included affordable options for channeling this outfit, as well as three others made famous by 007, in the July 2016 feature article: “4 Ways to Wear the James Bond Linen Trousers”

The Guns

The Madagascar sequence involves plenty of gunplay, although the first prominent instance of 007 handling a firearm is the incredibly cool scene where Mollaka runs out of ammunition in his Heckler & Koch USP Compact. The gun clicks empty just when he would’ve had Bond dead to rights. Out of bullets and any other feasible option, he tosses the pound and a half of steel at Bond, but our hero deftly manages to not only duck out of the way, but also catches the pistol in his right hand… and tosses it right back at him… all while on top of a crane!

Possibly the world's most dangerous game of catch.

Possibly the world’s most dangerous game of catch.

The chase eventually leads to the embassy of the fictional nation Nambutu, ostensibly Mollaka’s home country. Non-Nambutian that he is, Bond is forced to sneak in using the effective espionage method of leaping over a wall.

Once inside, 007 storms through the passageways until he finds Mollaka finding sanctuary in the office of a Nambutu ambassador (Valentine Nonyela). The ambassador opens his desk to reveal a black epoxy-finished Browning Hi-Power Mark III semi-automatic pistol, which Bond grabs and simultaneously uses to pistol-whip the ambassador.

With several no-nos already racked up, Bond then grabs Mollaka and storms him through the halls of the embassy, keeping the armed embassy guards away with defensive tactics such as shooting fire extinguishers to distract them and, finally, pushing Mollaka out a window and following him outside. Bond finds himself surrounded by embassy guards aiming WASR-3 rifles at him, and the bruised ambassador steps out and demands: “Listen to me!”

Bond realizes his predicament. He releases Mollaka from his grasp, holds the Hi-Power off to the side, and engages the safety before dropping it to the ground.

The Nambutu ambassador's Browning Hi-Power Mark III sits in his desk.

The Nambutu ambassador’s Browning Hi-Power Mark III sits in his desk.

Lest we forget, Bond still has his Walther P99 holstered. His extensive use of the Hi-Power may have been just enough to distract viewers from remembering that Bond has his own gun that goes mostly unused throughout the sequence. One swift move of his hand leads to two skillful shots – one to execute the terrorist Mollaka and the other to puncture a gas tank, causing a non-lethal explosion just distracting enough for 007 to get safely away with Mollaka’s bag.

Now armed with his sidearm of choice, Bond takes aim.

Now armed with his sidearm of choice, Bond takes aim.

Of course…the MythBusters team had their own ideas about Bond’s escape method. On the 95th episode, “James Bond, Part 1,” the team explored whether a 9mm round could really ignite a propane tank as seen in Casino Royale. Unfortunately for our heroic agent, not only did the tank not explode, but the 9mm round did not even pierce the tank. It wasn’t until they upped to shotgun shells that the tank would even pierce, and it took a high-powered M134 Minigun – loaded with a mix of tracer and incendiary 7.62x51mm NATO rounds – that the tank exploded in the manner seen on screen.

One only wonders what kind of holster and belt Bond would have needed to effectively carry an 85-pound minigun, but it likely would have hindered his progress climbing over those cranes!

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie. Also, check out IMFDB for more information and high-resolution images of the firearms used in Casino Royale.

And don’t forget to wish Daniel Craig a happy birthday!

Footnotes

The parkour chase is an especially impressive stunt sequence and can also be found on YouTube… as can the MythBusters segment debunking Bond’s embassy escape method.

According to Mollaka’s cell phone and security footage of Dimitrios in the Bahamas, this scene was set on July 6, 2006. Coincidentally enough, I was in Las Vegas with my family that whole week. Where were you on July 6, 2006?


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